#1
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yanking out the toilet -
yeah, I know, -head-.... well...
My '73 20' Seafari has an old, overboard discharge, head, which I want to remove, and replace with a portapotti, easier to deal with. Need to get this done soon, this spring, before I can go fishing for landlocked salmon in the New Hampshire lakes. The head is plumbed with two thru-hulls, intake and discharge - this is the real question - How to block off the thru-hulls, when I pull the head ? There were no sea cocks on either line, which doesn't thrill me. Are there solid (no hole) thru hull replacements available, which could just be installed into the holes ? If not, just a short piece of hose and a plug, attached to the thru hull, and double clamped at each end ? Are there thru hulls made with internal pipe thread, where a NPT plug could be screwed into the thru-hull? Or is there no other way around, than to glass over the holes ? I'd rather avoid this approach, until the weather gets significantly warmer, and more conducive to doing fiberglass work outside. Whatever route I take, I want to be significantly safe: Lake Winni is damn cold in the spring, and come summer the boat will be out in the Cape Anne/ North Shore area chasing blues, stripers, and hopefully, tuna. thanks Bill |
#2
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
Unfortunatly the safest way is to glass over them on both the inside and underside of the boat. That is the safest and most bullet proof way to go.
strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#3
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
What about a quality piece of hose connected to both and double clamped like you said. Basically allowing the water to go in and out between the fittings. Then you can use the boat and fix it right when the weather is warm. That is assuming the current through hulls are in good condition.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#4
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
the current, existing thru hulls are not the same size - inlet is a 3/4 (I think) and the outlet is 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 ??
so that keeps that solution out of play. I'm thinking short stubs of tube, 3 or 4 inches working length, insert a plug in one end, double clamp that, and double clamp to the thru hull. see the seperate post on stripping the old bottom paint - I would also want to wait on just glassing over the thru hulls till I get the paint stripped off the bottom. was hoping there was a thru hull filler out there someone knew of - a thru hull shaped piece with no hole, meant just for this occasion. Bill |
#5
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
I guess the different sizes would make sense to allow for "things" to flow out
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#6
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
QUESTION??
Why do the call it a head when it is designed for your tail?????? FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins |
#7
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
Head
The term comes from the days of sailing ships when the place for the crew to relieve themselves was all the way forward on either side of the bowsprit, the integral part of the hull to which the figurehead was fastened. |
#8
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
And I always thought that was called the POOP Deck.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins |
#9
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
Poop deck: A partial deck at the stern above the main deck, derived from the Latin "puppio" for the sacred deck where the "pupi" or doll images of the deities were kept.
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#10
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Re: yanking out the toilet -
I I Mattie, Learning all the time. So the Head is for the Poop and the Poop deck is for the deities.
I guess I need to brush up on some nautical terms. www.sailorschoice.com/Terms/scterms.htm FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins |
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