1978 20 Master Angler Restoration

GradySailfish · #1 06-10-2006, 12:46 AM

All right guys, here goes. I started working on my 78 Master Angler. I sanded the bottom smooth while the boat was still outside...I also sanded the paint the previous owner painted the boats sides with down to smooth gelcoat.

Here are some shots of the boat sitting outside. She was subsequently placed on my Grady's trailer and slipped into her new home for the next year or so inside my big garage.

Here are some pics.
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http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/Seacraftsideshot.jpg[/image]

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http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/splashwell.jpg[/image]

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http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/transom2.jpg[/image]

So much dust in the air the camera got a picture of it!

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000838.jpg[/image]

Start of De-Rigging

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000840.jpg[/image]

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000847.jpg[/image]

Fuel Tank Removal

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000856.jpg[/image]

Tank Coffin

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/IM000867.jpg[/image]

There wasen't that much foam around the tank, and I think it was relatively recently replace and painted with Zinc Phosphate. Although I didn't take a pic, I scrapped the junk off the tank and it looks like its in good shape. Tomorrow I'll pressure test it...if it holds pressure I'll clean it up more, paint it and eventually re-install. Tank prices have gone up big time in the past couple years.

Now my nest step is to remove and replace the deck. I will need to re-do the entire deck since its VERY SOFT in many areas and rather soft almost all over. I saw pictures of James Allmans 80' MA where he replaced the deck with marine ply. I would like to do the same. My question is should I cut along the line indicated in the picture, remove the remainder of the deck leaving the drainage channel, then grind that area down and apply 1708 over the entire deck to tie it all in. I really want to leave that channel and want to cut 1-1.5 inches outside of the channel, so when I glass the deck over, I can glass over that area and tie everything together soundly and strongly.

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/Cutdeck.jpg[/image]

[image]url=http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/0a367ffe.jpg[/image]

ScottM · #2 06-10-2006, 11:38 AM

Grady,
I cleaned up some of the image tags for you.

Quote:

All right guys, here goes. I started working on my 78 Master Angler. I sanded the bottom smooth while the boat was still outside...I also sanded the paint the previous owner painted the boats sides with down to smooth gelcoat.

Here are some shots of the boat sitting outside. She was subsequently placed on my Grady's trailer and slipped into her new home for the next year or so inside my big garage.

Here are some pics.

[image]
]http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/Gradysailfish/transom2.jpg[/image]

So much dust in the air the camera got a picture of it!

Start of De-Rigging

Fuel Tank Removal

Tank Coffin

There wasen't that much foam around the tank, and I think it was relatively recently replace and painted with Zinc Phosphate. Although I didn't take a pic, I scrapped the junk off the tank and it looks like its in good shape. Tomorrow I'll pressure test it...if it holds pressure I'll clean it up more, paint it and eventually re-install. Tank prices have gone up big time in the past couple years.

Now my nest step is to remove and replace the deck. I will need to re-do the entire deck since its VERY SOFT in many areas and rather soft almost all over. I saw pictures of James Allmans 80' MA where he replaced the deck with marine ply. I would like to do the same. My question is should I cut along the line indicated in the picture, remove the remainder of the deck leaving the drainage channel, then grind that area down and apply 1708 over the entire deck to tie it all in. I really want to leave that channel and want to cut 1-1.5 inches outside of the channel, so when I glass the deck over, I can glass over that area and tie everything together soundly and strongly.

GradySailfish · #3 06-10-2006, 02:48 PM

Thanks, for a second I wondered why my post seemed like its doubled!

Well any suggestions guys?

strick · #4 06-10-2006, 10:04 PM

The channel is nice but if you want to make it self bail better then you will want to raise the flood 1.5 to 2 inches. Then you will have to off that channel and make a new one. That may be more work then you want to get yourself into.

If thats the case and you want to leave the design as it is then I think your plan to tie in at the edge of the channel will work. However will need to make sure that there is support (like girders under a house) under the new floor and the old edge/channel to rest on then tie them together.

strick

GradySailfish · #5 06-10-2006, 11:33 PM

Thanks for the reply Strick. From my understanding I shoulden't have self bailing problems with this version of the 20, since it has the pvc tubes running to the rabuds in the transom. Supposedly this was the best self bailing desing for all the 20's. I actually was wondering whethere to raise the floor or not, but others point out its not necessary in my boat.

I was looking at James Allmans pictures, and saw how he did his. Well I would like to mimick what he did. I do believe their is support underneath by where those channels are. I'm actually wondering whether leaving on 1-1.5 inches outside of the actual channel is enough to later tie into the new deck.

RS · #6 06-11-2006, 09:53 AM

Another thing to consider is to replace the 70 gal fuel tank with a 50 gallon. That will give you room in the front of the tank box to put your batteries with a couple cubic feet of storage left over for lines, spare anchor, etc.

That's what I did to mine and it's working out well.

GradySailfish · #7 06-11-2006, 11:39 AM

Roger, thanks for the reply. Interestingly enough I was seriously considering replacing the tank with a smaller one. The main reason is becasue I might be able to get a surplus brand new 48 or 55 gallon tank at a really good price. I'm not sure if the deal will go through, but I'll stop by the local welding shop. I looked at my tank yesterday in good daylight and realized its pitted too severly to be reused!

I wanted to move a smaller tank foward to help offset the balance of the 4 stroke (heavier motor) I intend to power the boat with. My plan was to move the batteries to under the console seat.

Well guys, I think today I'll start cutting into the deck. If not today then Wednesday. Wish me luck. I'll be leaving a lip of almost 2 inches outside the little channel. That way when I grind and tie the new deck into the old there will be enough room for a new bond.

samuelcooper · #8 06-11-2006, 01:40 PM

can anyone direct me to info on the self-bailing issues. Which hulls need it and which don't What are the options. I'm supposed to look at a 69 this week. thanks for the help on this board.

willydewitt2 · #9 06-13-2006, 01:30 PM

I have kept the 70 gal cap. on my 20 MA and moved the batts up under the console seat and help out the wieght dist. quite a bit. My self bailing hull drains through the floor and I have to plug them if I have more than one person on the boat, even with a lite amount of fuel. I have a 200 yamaha(1994)

GradySailfish · #10 06-14-2006, 09:57 PM

Willydewit, do you have Rabuds in the back of your MA. My boat drains through the floor, but those drains run to the back of the boat and let the water out through rabuds, AKA Ping Pong Scuppers. I thought those would prevent water from coming into the boat.