steering issues

jwclbi · #1 02-09-2010, 06:14 PM

Although its Feb and my boat wont see water for months I know im going to have the same problem I had last year. Which was with the steering disconnected from the outboard it is not very easy to move back forth as it was years back. I have routinly greased the the midsection but it just gets more and more difficult each year after sitting for the winter. I have looked briefly through my shop manual and from the looks of it to get any access to the "swivel pin" one would have to remove the power head. I have tried to heat it up to loosen the grease but no luck. Anyone had any experience with freeing this up? I have plenty of time as we are waiting for another foot of the white stuff and I dont take the shrink wrap off until april. Any help would be great, thanks.

Fr. Frank · #2 02-09-2010, 08:39 PM

1st, Remove any cowling parts that are near the motor pivot.
Remove the carburetors, fuel lines and fuel pump.
Disconnect ther steering cable or hydraulic ram.
Use an oxy-acetylene torch with a rosebud tip to heat the entire pivot column, without igniting the old grease. (Just warming it up)
Using a pneumatic grease pump, pump a very large quantity of strong petroleum solvent into the pivot grease fittings. (Use a cut 55 gallon drum base to catch excess solvent and grease).
To force solvent upward in the pivot column, you can wrap the base of the column with a rag, and then put a worm-screw clamp around it.
Pump new molybdenum grease (NOT LITHIUM GREASE) into column until it comes out everywhere. LOTS AND LOTS OF NEW GREASE!!!
Reassemble fuel system and cowlings

This is only a temporary fix. It could do you for a couple of years or more. A real fix means pulling the powerhead to access the pivot pin.

jwclbi · #3 02-09-2010, 11:32 PM

thanks for the advice father, the only question I have is the engine is fuel injected and I would prefer to not tamper with that setup, you think it will be ok to leave it be?

Fr. Frank · #4 02-10-2010, 12:07 AM

You can put a welding blanket below the fuel system, and then tie it up around the powerhead to keep it out of the way. A rosebud on an oxy-acetylene torch puts out a considerable amount of heat. That's why I would remove the lower cowling, to prevent damage to the fiberglass and paint from the torch heat.