corrosion and torches

gofastsandman · #1 10-30-2011, 06:53 PM

Hi all,

Well I`m stuck. Literally.

`96 rude 150 Fast track trim and tilt assy.

The motor failed and I am trying to remove the unit.

Two weeks of various penetrants and banging with a 3 lb. sledge and a brass drift have been fruitless.

Put an air hammer on it today and got the lower pin to break free from the transom bracket collars. The center tube is holding fast.

Not mine, but here`s a pic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-200-hp-...item2568c8e588

There is a 1 in. shaft that goes through the casting at the bottom of the hyd. manifold.
Lots of white corrosion in there.

Mapp gas burns 300 F hotter than O/E but then you have the pressure advantage of a pro torch which I don`t own.

So,
Any thoughts?

Cheers,
GFS

NoBones · #2 10-30-2011, 08:03 PM

Sandy. I feel your pain.....

Trailer the Slacker on up and we will
rose bud the sucker!!!

You know it is only 2.5 hrs of windshield time up!!

Let me know.

workinpr0gress · #3 10-30-2011, 08:52 PM

Little heat, little Aero Kroil, over and over and over...... it'll wick it up eventually enough to get it moving......a lot of the time you can replace the motor without removing the whole assembly. Just put the engine up on the trailering arm and undo the top pin on the ram, undo the two hydraulic lines and swing it down and try to sneak the motor out. I realize you may have the same kind of corrosion problems with getting the motor out, it's just a suggestion that's worth looking at.

gofastsandman · #4 10-30-2011, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by workinpr0gress

Little heat, little Aero Kroil, over and over and over...... it'll wick it up eventually enough to get it moving......a lot of the time you can replace the motor without removing the whole assembly. Just put the engine up on the trailering arm and undo the top pin on the ram, undo the two hydraulic lines and swing it down and try to sneak the motor out. I realize you may have the same kind of corrosion problems with getting the motor out, it's just a suggestion that's worth looking at.

Thanks for the inside scoop, but I want to pull it out and rebuild it.

Am I wrong in my thinking?

I think if i can rebuild the seals, I can go hunting no?

Chick Chick
{sound of pump}

Thanks,
GFS

workinpr0gress · #5 10-30-2011, 10:27 PM

Just my thoughts feel free to do as ya see fit, I know what ya mean. You could also take a spanner wrench to everything that unscrews while its on the transom and just bring it to a hydraulic shop and have them put much nicer and cheaper seals and wipers.

gofastsandman · #6 10-31-2011, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by workinpr0gress

Just my thoughts feel free to do as ya see fit, I know what ya mean. You could also take a spanner wrench to everything that unscrews while its on the transom and just bring it to a hydraulic shop and have them put much nicer and cheaper seals and wipers.

Would a hydraulic shop have better scrapers? Seal kit was 72 clams....

I want to paint it while it is out and have a feeling the screws on the motor are going to be a challenge.

Thanks all for the thoughts and ideas.

Ken, thanks for the offer.

Sore shoulder,
GFS

Wildman · #7 10-31-2011, 03:41 PM

So the pin is free of the side pieces, and now is stuck in the cyliner eye right? You have to pull the motor off the boat to get to it. Roll it over (on a stand) so your looking at the part that would sit against the transom and start heating it. Heat, oil, Heat, oil, repeat about 200X. Then beat the Pi$$ outa it. If it still wont come out, hit it harder. We had the same problem with josh's (oilfieldman)150 earlier this year. If the motor has sat for a long time its all done. Just plan on buying a new one I would be surprised if the bores where the seals ride arnt scored up and pitted.

gofastsandman · #8 10-31-2011, 07:49 PM

No need to pull the motah.

I want to take it off so I can do things my way. Prep and paint the bracket and t+t.

Remove all white crust from their lairs. Tef Gel the shafts.

I see issues with the motah screws. I can punch the center of the phillips to help break the
bond. The screws are not painted after assy. I would like to paint it after the rebuild. The corrosion starts there and where the trailer bracket hits.

After all this pounding, I have been shocked. The paint fell of the motah revealing a gash to the armature. Oh the horror.

If you see any corrosion, it will remind you of an old Benz.

By the time you see it, it is toast.

Pics will follow at the end of the rainbow,
GFS

gofastsandman · #9 11-01-2011, 07:57 PM

Picked up a Mapp gas torch.

Bushwacker provided me with the Kroil. Thanks Denny. He always is exposing me to better ideas and products. Read his posts. Don`t you wish he was in your back yard?

With the net, we all are now.

Here`s my new and improved thinking.

Drill some holes at 30 degrees through the center section to the top of the shaft. Add Kroil.
Heat. Repeat. Heat. Re Pete.

I have only propane time. Heat the beast back and forth with the flame?

Concentrate on one Place/hole at a time?

Thanks to workin progress too,
GFS
So true about boats.

FishStretcher · #10 11-01-2011, 08:24 PM

You know to heat the eye and not the shaft, right? Wet rags on the shaft to cool it, while you heat the eye. The differences in temperatures and thermal expansion coefficients break the two free of each other.