trailer capacity to the max

[cdavisdb]

I've had a fair amount of trouble with my tires on an Owens Slide on trailer, get real cranky changing tires on the side if I-75 and want to fix the problem forever. My current plan is all stainless disc brakes and change my tires and hubs to fit 15 inch load range D, probably bias ply tires, with a spare tire and spare hub. Right now I've got 215/75 r14 tires, load range C, the largest that will fit on my hubs and supposed to be fine to carry 7480. Its a 7000 lb(gross) trailer and a 25 seafari. I've estimated weight and should be well under 7000 most of the time and slightly over 7000 fully loaded for a Bahama trip. The heavier tires should mean they are loafing with that load.

Any ideas, comments? Bias vs Radial? What brand of stainless brakes would you recommend?

Anybody besides me anchored out when that front came through last Sunday?

[WildBill]

A couple years back I fought the same issues. I owned a 25' Sportcraft openfisherman (a classic for you diehards) that I hauled to the Key's (500 miles) and West Palm Beach (250 miles) each spring and home each fall. I continually overheated the front axle and brakes. The trailer was a 7000 lb alluminum loadmaster and running 15" Goodyear Marathon radials. The boat with gear usually was right at about 5500-5800lbs including the trailer ( I weighed the boat at the Pilot scales). I experimented moving the boat forward and to the rear to see if I had too much weight over the front axle but to no avail. After smoking the front hubs and Kodiak brakes probably 4 times over 3-4 years I had enough. I bit the bullet and put 2 new 5000lb axles underneath her with 5 new 16" bias ply's. I also installed electric brakes and got rid of the surge brakes which would occassionally not release right away.(you'll need a brake controller about $125.00 or so) I think the electric brakes are the "Cat's Ass"for heavy loads. It cost me about a grand to have it done but well worth it, "Problem Solved". About the radial's the theory is that the radials are suppose to run cooler over long distances and that's why I ran the radials knowing where she would spend the spring and summers. I only lost one tire comming back from WPB the last time I brought her home at my exit on I-75. (Try to not carry a full load of fuel,ice,etc long distances) Once the fuel got crazy at about the time our new fearless leader got rolling and his new administration and their policies got cranked up I got priced out of my calling and lifestyle of rolling down to the Key's.(I must be a 1%er)
I have had numerous trailers over the years including the one you have which was one of the best I've had.(it sat underneath my '79 Sceptre) but had never experienced problems like I just shared. I'm starting to wonder if the newer axles are made elsewhere (China) and even though they are tagged 3500lb axles they are not really rated that high. Anyway after fixing her up I sold her and sent her over to Crystal River where you can see her frolicing in the springs with the manatee's.

Good Luck Wild Bill

[77SceptreOB]

The way I understand it, a tandum axle trailer with 2 x 3,500lb axles = 7,000 GROSS wgt. Deduct the dead weight of the alum trailer, say 600lbs and the trailer is capable of carrying a 6,400lb boat. That is total weight, boat motor, fuel, accessories, etc. Any 20' or 23' SeaCraft should be fine. 25' SeaFari is probably pushing it.

[Bushwacker]

Hey Connor,

Load range D 15" tires should help quite a bit. They don't have to spin as fast which should generate less heat and also help the bearings last longer.

Although my single axle EZ Loader roller trailer is officially rated at 3100 lbs load capacity, I believe the rating is pretty conservative because my fully loaded weight is in the 3400-3500 lb range and I've towed it all over the state with zero tire problems in the 27 years I've had it. Have made numerous trips to the keys towing on I-95/turnpike @ 60-65 mph. Tandem trailers with the same roller configuration are rated for 4000 lb boats, so the 25 rollers supporting the hull are definitely not the limiting factor. The trailer is HD hot dipped galvanized steel and weighs about 900 lbs, so my towed weight is in the 4400 lb range. It has a 5000 lb axle on it with 6-lug wheels. The tires are Denman ST225-75D15's, rated for 2540 lb max load at 65 psi, so they're are only loaded at about 87% of max capacity, which is probably the main reason I've had no problems. The tires are bias ply, 4 ply nylon in the sidewalls and 5 plies in the tread. If you had 4 tires like that, you'd have over 10,000 lbs capacity, so they'd only be loaded to around 70% of capacity, so I'd think that would work fine.

Since I never dunk the trailer, I ran 12" drum brakes for years but finally switched over to Kodiak disks because the drum brakes were such a pain to keep adjusted evenly. I didn't need the stainless version, but obviously you'd want that on a trailer you dunk in saltwater. This pic will show why I prefer a roller trailer! http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/IMAG0090.jpg

I weighed all the gear on the boat one time and created a spreadsheet I'll e-mail to you - it's amazing how all that stuff adds up! Denny

[cdavisdb]

Denny, how old are your tires before you replace them?

[DonV]

I have, soon to be had, Carlisle radials.......pure junk!! Before I pull the SeaCraft anywhere, except the one mile to the local boat ramp, I'm replacing with bias.

[Bushwacker]

Connor, I don't let them go more than about 6-7 years (and they're always in the shade where I park the boat) IF I'm going to be towing it very far. However I have let them go a LOT longer than that before I retired, if just towing a mile or so from home to ramp and back! Denny

[floorboy]

Originally Posted by DonV

I have, soon to be had, Carlisle radials.......pure junk!! Before I pull the SeaCraft anywhere, except the one mile to the local boat ramp, I'm replacing with bias.

I had Carlisle's on the old boat. 500-600 miles one way 5-7 times a year for 4 years, 2 of them under inflated, never had a problem. 5500# gross.🚕🚤

Just sayin