#1
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20 Seafari rigging tube/conduit?
Has anyone installed a PVC conduit for a rigging tube on a 20' Seafari? If so, what diameter did you use, and what was the length? I am considering adding a conduit down the starboard side for a neat wiring/cabling install.
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#2
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Seafari Rigging Tube
There's sure to be other comments, but my experience of 40 years on my '76 Seafari is I am occasionally adding or replacing things like instruments, speaker wires, etc. Seems that it would be difficult to do unless the conduit were large. I have wires zip tied to the steering and outboard throttle cables. And even with that it's a bit of a pain. Maybe an electrician will tell us differently.
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#3
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An option that i did was install a few hangers and then Use Cable Wraps in 24" sections. They stretch and expand and keep things tight. Its the material used to clean up computer cables at a desk and it works very well. Can get them on Amazon pretty cheap. Then when u need to undo it to replace or add wires the velcro comes right undone.
Its like 24" long x 6" wide with Velcro running the whole length of the 24" piece. Works pretty Awesome. https://www.amazon.com/Entry-Cable-B...ds=cable+wraps Robert |
#4
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*I have seen a lot of people making this mistake: using a 90* pvc plumbing pipe (white pvc), which makes cables and etc to run tightly. You must use an electrical 90* gray pvc pipe or heat the pipe to make a wide long elbow. This facilitates the running of everything within the pipe. As an electrician, I can say that not even a cable awg 12 runs easily in a 90* pvc plumbing pipe.
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#5
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I don't know about diameter, would think it depends on the height of the stringers and bilge. Regarding the bends/ radius, have looked at some you tube videos and hot sand or boiling water was used to get any bend you want.
As fredbrad said 90* pvc is a PIA even the 45* is not fun and agree with grey pvc. By all means include several extra pulls for the future needs. Ed |
#6
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I'm restoring and replacing the deck on a 17' aluminum now and am using PVC tube with 22-1/2 degree elbows to run the power from the batteries in the stern to the switch panels in the console and the elec.trolling motor on the bow.
I had all this stuff in my basement from my years in the hardware industry, so I saved some money, figured I'd put it to use. I ran some 6 and 8 gauge wire through it as a test before I button up the deck.and it went through pretty easy. Wish I did a rigging tube on my Tsunami in the restore, I hate to think of having to get into the wires and steering cables that are in the gunwhale with (I lost count) the tons of zip ties holding all that stuff together.
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All this,just for a boat ride |
#7
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I can see the grey pipe would be the way to go. I was thinking of a straight run along the underside of the gunwale only, and leave the cables and wires to sweep the corners just bundled by zip ties.
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#8
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Seafari rigging doesn't go under the floor like a CC . . . it runs under the gunnel. No need for a 90 degree turn. I found some flexible PVC hose at a marine salvage place, I think about 1.5-2.0" ID that I think I was able to fit up into the coaming above the fasteners for the coaming bolsters. It has to go above the teak rod holders that are fastened to the inside of the coaming. It was pretty tight. I used some split corrugated wiring loom to run wiring from the hose down to the battery switch and negative buss in the stern. I had to disassemble the Deutch connectors for the engine harness and then reassemble them after running the wires, as those plugs were too big to fit. Braided polyethelene line works well for pulling wires thru because it tightens up when you pull on it, sort of like an old Chinese finger puzzle.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
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