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#1
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fellowship - since youve done it
and Whitehawk - since you seem to know allot about it.heres the deal, i need to rebuild my transom, and im going to do it the right way, but im deffiently going to need some help, im going to need to do it similar to the way Tim Dugan did his. however, im not ready to do it alone, you guys have you no clue how much a day or 2 of your time would mean to me, please consider seriously helping out a fellow seacrafter, thanks! Ben
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no falls, no balls |
#2
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Well Ben, since you live in West Palm I guess that pretty much means me since we are practically neighbors. I would be happy to look at your project and help you to plan your restoration. I'll email you to get particulars.
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#3
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HA BEN
DOING A TRANSOM IS NOT REALLY THAT HARD IT DOES TAKE A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THIN LAYERS OF PLYWOOD. I USED ¾ “ MARINE PLYWOOD IF I WERE TO DO IT AGAIN I WOULD USE 3 PIECES OF ½”. I USED THE WEST SYSTEM AND USED THE SLOWER HARDENER. IF YOU DO THE WORK IN THE SHADE YOU WILL HAVE PLENTY OF TIME TO APPLY THE RESIN AND CLAMP AND SCREW IT FIRMLY INTO PLACE. THEN ALLOW YOUR WORK TO DRY AND DO THE SAME PROCESS OVER AGAIN. I CAME IN FROM THE INSIDE BY REMOVING THE RUB RAIL CUTTING THE CAP ABOUT WHERE THE ROPE GIZMO IS AND THEN REMOVING THAT WHOLE AREA BACK THERE. YOU CAN SEE MY PICTURES ON THIS SIGHT UNDER KEN MCGOVERN 23’ MY HOME PHONE # IS 954-680-0493 YOU CAN GET ME AFTER 6 PM WITH ANY QUESTIONS YOU MIGHT HAVE I DID MINE WITH NO HELP AND REALLY DIDN’T NEED ANY. I ALSO ADDED EXTRA SUPPORT FROM THE CENTER LINE TO THE TRANSOM AND FOR THE SPLASH WELL. I ALSO REMOVED THE LIVE WELL FROM THE TRANSOM AND MADE ONE AND MOVED IT FORWARD. ALL IN ALL A LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE. FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] |
#4
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Fellow-ship,
After looking at the photos of your 23', I noticed it had some type of stainless or aluminum cap on the transom. In a previous post of mine, I inquired about adding 5 inches back to the notch in my transom and Animal Chris mentioned a method of using a piece of oak and then capping it with aluminum to tie everything in. Is that the purpose the stainless served on your boat before you re-did it? Did you put the metal piece back on when done? |
#5
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HA SCOTT
WHEN I BOUGHT THE BOAT IT HAD THAT ALUMINUM TRANSOM GUARD ON IT. IT ANGLED AROUND THE TOP AND COVERED BOTH SIDES OF THE TRANSOM AND THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE ENGINE’S WENT THROUGH IT. THE PREVIOUS OWNER SET IT UP WITH TWO ENGINE’S IT ALSO BOLTED THROUGH THE TRANSOM AT THE ENDS PLUS IT ALSO ATTACHED TO THE TWO SIDES OF THE SPLASH WELL WITH 6 ADDITIONAL BOLTS THE WHOLE THING HAD TONS OF 5200 TO BOOT. THIS IS A VERY ELABORATE TRANSOM SAVER. I BELIEVE THE PREVIOUS OWNER WAS NEEDING TO REPLACE THE TRANSOM AND INSTEAD OF DOING THE JOB HE HAD THIS TRANSOM SAVER INSTALLED. THE TRANSOM BEFORE I RE DID IT HAD 128 SEPARATE HOLES IN IT SOME SMALL FOR LITTLE SCREWS AND OTHERS WERE BIG FOR BOLTS OR THROUGH HULL FITTINGS (A REAL MESS). I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THIS TRANSOM SAVOR AND I STILL HAVE IT IN MY BACK YARD. IN REGARD TO YOUR QUESTION ABOUT INCREASING THE HEIGHT OR YOUR TRANSOM TO 30” I BELIEVE IT OR SOMETHING LIKE IT COULD BE INCORPORATED FOR THAT TYPE OF SUPPORT THE THICKNESS OF THIS THING IS ABOUT ¼ AND THE WAY IT WAS MADE WAS VERY GOOD. THE ONLY DRAWBACK IS YOU ARE LOOKING AT DRILLING 6 MORE BOLT SIZE HOLES IN YOUR TRANSOM PLUS 6 BOLT SIZE HOLES THROUGH THE SIDES OF THE SPLASH WELL UNDER OR AROUND THE TWO SMALL HATCHES IN THE STERN OF THE BOAT. FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] |
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