Transom support.

Blue · #1 04-01-2004, 08:42 AM

The boat I bought had a transom job done. I haven't looked inside yet but I assume the previous owner added a trimmed 2 by 6 to the top and glassed it in. The engine is now mounted with two bolts on the original transom and two on the new 2 by 6. There is a crack running along the top of the transome 5 inches down presumably where the new addition butts the old transome.

What is the protocall? Is there a bracket that can go on the back and mount to the origional holes and support the engine up at its new height? I have seen Fixed jack plates that raise the engine 5 inches but have a 4in setback. That would do the trick (taking the pressure of the new addition making the crack purely cosmetic) but is there a down fall to a 4 in set back?

This can't be unique to my boat so any one with suggestions please let me know your thoughts.

ScottM · #2 04-01-2004, 09:24 AM

Blue,
Are you running a 20 or a 23? I have seen this type of fix before, but I have not seen a cracked one, although I can see how this would happen. Short of re-doing the whole transom to make it one solid piece, you could get a piece of 3/8" aircraft aluminum and bolt is across the outside of the transom to add rigidity. I think Fellowship's boat had a plate similar to this before he re-did the whole thing. I wouldn't recommend a jack plate in your situation because of the extra strain it places on the transom by pushing the fulcrum point and engine weight further aft. You could end up doing more damage. My father added a fixed jack plate to his 23 Sceptre last season and he found he needed an aluminum plate across the splash well to reinforce it due to the additional strain.

FELLOW-SHIP · #3 04-01-2004, 10:41 AM

Ha Blue
If you look at my boat on the home page under 23’ Ken McGovern you will see the aluminum plate Scott was talking about it wraps around both sides of the transom and then bolted into the transom and sides of the splash well. The previous owner used it to support a weak transom I guess it would also work for someone that wanted to rise the transom from a 25” to a 30” shaft length as well but not sure regarding that possibility. I still have the thing sitting on the side of my house.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

Blue · #4 04-01-2004, 11:45 AM

I was sceptical about the jack plates for the same reason. The aluminum plate seems like a good idea. Fellowship, what does the plate weigh? And how thick was the plate?

Scott The boat is a 20' and other that a few beers in the drive way I have yet to run anywhere with it. I just got it a few weeks ago.

I'm not sure how to add a photo but if you look in one of the ones on this site you will see the crack

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

Thanks
Blue

RS · #5 04-01-2004, 12:08 PM

Nice ride Blue.
If the rest of the transom is shot (which it probably is) I'd consider redoing the whole thing properly. Otherwise you're looking at a situation that you'll probably need to fix in a couple years anyway.

Hope to see you on the bay this summer.

Trayder · #6 04-01-2004, 12:33 PM

Hello Blue-

Very nice boat and welcome to the site.

Are you proficent in working with Fiberglass?

If your transom is not shot you could take the motor off and lay up some layers of structural glass over the new addition and tie it into the rest of the boat. I do not thik it was adequatly put in to begin with from the looks of that crack.

Mark · #7 04-01-2004, 12:38 PM

Depending on how the boat was kept/stored, and how generous the owner was with 5200 when replacing screws in the transom, it might be OK - my '71 had a solid transom but I decided to replace it anyway during the complete rebuild.

I see the metal plate option as a temporary band-aid on a larger issue. I know that's not what you want to hear, but you have a 31 year old boat (cheer up, it's two years newer than mine!). I'd go ahead and use it until it really obviously needs to be repaired and then have the whole transom replaced - from the INSIDE.

I had a manual jackplate on my '77 SeaCraft 18' in order to make room for the hydraulic steering, and the set-back meant that the stern sat even lower in the water....on an already a$$ heavy boat.

If that crack across the transom is the biggest issue you are facing, you are doing just fine. Get a full Summer out of it and then go for a new transom. Just my vote

Blue · #8 04-01-2004, 01:24 PM

I have done plenty of glass work in the past, but was hoping to avoid digging in to a project this close to the boating season. A temporary solution is what I am looking for. I have yet to drill in and see the condition of the rest to the transom as it has rained for the past week.

FELLOW-SHIP · #9 04-01-2004, 05:37 PM

Ha Blue
The thickness of the plate is about ¼” thick on both sides of the transom the 2” thickness of the top of the transom was accomplished by a weld job by the manufacturer of the thing. I took it off and did my transom from the inside I think this type of thing works ok for a season or two for a guy that wants to add additional support to a transom but realizes that he really needs to redo the transom sooner or later.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]