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  #11  
Old 04-08-2005, 06:34 PM
CaptScottNC CaptScottNC is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Atlantic Beach, NC
Posts: 48
Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard iss

Ok guys... Just got back from seeing the boat in person. Saw some things that concerned me and would like to see what the experts here think. I have lots of great photos to go along with what I noticed. I looked over the boat for about 45 min looking at everything I could think of. Here we go with my list. We'll start with the transom. The photo is self-explanatory.


This is just what I could feel with my fist banging on the hull firmly. I could see and feel it move a little when pounded in the two places I highlighted. Near the bracket it was solid but I suspect this is mostly due to the reinforced area on the other side of the wall with a plate.

Next we have the soft floor and bow. Found several dozen small cracks in the Awlgrip that is supposed to be only a couple years old. Still looks good and white but is cracked in many places. Only thing I can figure is that the floor had cracks before due to rotting cores and not old paintjob. It was painted over to fix the cracks but cracks developed in the same places. What do you think would cause all these small cracks? A few places I could tell were soft spots in the floor and an obvious one inthe bow that the salesman had alreayd known about and told me. I know the entire bow deck needs to be replaced and with all these cracks I feel confident the floor will need to be redone at the same time I'm sure. You can see the cracks in some of these photos. Also the access to the fuel lines was covered with a white painted piece of plywood.



You can also see the caulk sealing the hatch in front of the console.





Here there is also caulk running around the edge of the seam near the anchor locker. I actually thought this area was connected as part of the liner and would not have a seam here that needed caulk? Any ideas?

This next photo shows the nuts/washers inside the anchor locker that secures the winch hook is obviously distorted and seems to have "given" a bit with sunken/cracked areas around the washer.


Lastly I stuck the camera under the floor and took some pictures with the flash. I could not get my head under there and see anything but the photos show it pretty well. Looks like the area that is aroudn the stern hatch where the outboard used to be has been supported with 2x4's and some plywood. I can't even tell what the 2x4's are being supported by or how they are bonded to the floor, stringers or transom? I seeplywood and 2x4's and they don't really appear soaked in epoxy or glassed to me. What do yall think?








Lastly you can see the hull from the forklift. There was a patch underneath where a thruhull was or something. Also an old "ground plate" we think and a thruhull for the livewell.



So looking at all this and the boat in itself what would you guys think a fair price would be? Keeping in mind all your guys love SeaCrafts and see the potential as much as the boat in its current state. I'm looking at the potential..but I'm buying the boat in it's current state. HA!

Also, The hatch in front of the console is sealed with caulk and could not be accessed. The GPS would not lock on to any satellites and is an older Garmin B/W Map unit. It has a Garmin 250 B/White. Sony Cd player. NO trim tabs. Nice new top and leaning post. Livewell didn't appear to work properly but might just be electrical. Raw water washdown as well. NO Trailer either. 1997 Evinrude Oceanpro that seemed to work pretty good. Coughed at idle some but had really old spark plugs that were very corroded on the outside. So considering everything you guys are seeing here with the soft transom, floor, bow, electronics, bracket taht I guess I can't really use after I refurb it, etc. and No trailer what would you say is Fair Market Value of this boat within $1000 or so.

Thanks for all your help guys. Boat rode really well but looking at a lot of work down the line. I have more pictures if anyone wants to see them. OH and Console base and sides have several cracks all over as well. Thanks everyone for looking and chiming in. Glad to hear from and be another Scott added to the board.

Thanks
Scott
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Scott
Atlantic Beach, NC
1977 Sea Craft 23SF
250hp Suzie 4-stroke
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2005, 12:31 AM
Scott Scott is offline
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Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard iss

Scott

You have to expect to have a wet transom (unless it was recently redone) … I think every boat on this site does or did at some point. I would center my attention more on the condition under the water line and around that bracket …That’s where your stress is. Additionally I would take a look at all the thru-hulls ….the through the deck scuppers, the garboard drain, forward fish locker drain (under the casting platform) etc etc. They can be a liability.

The bottom patch I would check from inside the bilge.

The deck crazing … Does the deck fell spongy ?? I cant think of too many older boats that I have been on that don’t have that. I have it too !!! The issue is that it wasn’t properly fixed the first time around and opened up again. They look like fairly tight hairlines in the gelcoat versus real structural damage. Does it look like water could easily get into them ??

Interesting that the hold forward of your console is sealed …Did they say why ??

The forward anchor locker bulkhead …. That’s just a piece of plywood with Formica on it (at least use to be). Where it meets the deck and runs up the gunwale sides there is a lip to hold it in place …. The caulk must have been placed there to seal it up. My boat has nothing.

The towing eye … That just looks like the backing plate / proper sized washers didn’t make it on there. That would be simple to replace or fix and back with something that would not allow it to pull through like those nuts are.

Your 2x4’s … would have been nice (and done more appropriately ) if coated in glass and resin !!! That I would want to check into a little more

The whole bracket thing … There’s nothing wrong with what you have there … just that putting a monster four stroke on there could make that boat real heavy in the rear.

How’s the wiring, the fuel system, and the hydraulic steering ?? Those systems alone are several thousand if they require replacement.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2005, 08:22 AM
Capt Chuck's Avatar
Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Location: Sailfish Capital, fla
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Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard iss

Capt

I don't like those "Bare 2x4's and ply" at all What the heck kind of repair or support are they providing?? Something is not kosher here [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] I would be very leary seeing that non-marine grade stuff under there. What about the areas you can't see. You could have safety issues here. I would get a professional survey.

Any boat that is 30+ years old needs a transom, fuel tank, wiring and possible floor.(Those hollow spots are a sure sign) If water is getting in those cracks the balsa is absorbing it.

IMHO: There appears to be many issues that have been masked over I wouldn't pay over $10K for it...
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2005, 09:35 AM
SECF3114M73J SECF3114M73J is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: mystic,ct.
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Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard issue.

I agree, this boat needs a lot of work. Take a small plastic faced hammer or the butt of a screw driver handle and tap around the suspect areas, you'll be able to hear whether it's solid or not. I would have a mechanic check out the motor,you need a compression check,etc. I'd like to see why the hatch was caulked, that's just a storage compartment.That plywood patch on your fuel fill and vent channel, shows that a hack worked on the boat, lacking patience. But all in all, I'd say this is typical condition for a boat of this vintage.
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  #15  
Old 04-09-2005, 11:40 AM
CaptScottNC CaptScottNC is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Atlantic Beach, NC
Posts: 48
Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard iss

Thanks guys.. you are helping me make my decision as informed as possible. That's what I was hoping for. So how much are you looking at to have someone replace the transom? This just repairing properly and then adding back the existing bracket just for figuring the repair costs and sale price ( I won't fault the guy for having the wrong bracket).

So if you would guess guys.. what is it going to run me to repair the transom, Labor, glasswork, removal and reinstall?

Then how much for the floor that definitely needs replacing?
same deal, removal, labor, glasswork, repainting?

OH and I'm definitely getting it professionally surveyed. The insurance company requires it for a boat this old and I'm glad they do or I'd be tempted not to spend the money.
So what do yall think about these repair costs?

Enough people had them done I should be able to get pretty close. You can send in email if you dont' want ot talk money figures here [email protected]
Thanks
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Atlantic Beach, NC
1977 Sea Craft 23SF
250hp Suzie 4-stroke
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2005, 11:29 PM
laser laser is offline
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Join Date: May 2003
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Posts: 159
Default Re: 1973 23' CC question about I/O to Outboard iss

Hey Capt Scott welcome to the site...I think it is safe to say that we feel this boat is special not just another boat. Seeing 2x4s is a bad sign to us and takes away the value of the boat from a purchase stand point. Some of us have spent more money then we should on 30 yr old b oats but when you go to Bass Pro and see that they are selling our boats for $70-80k then it doesn't seem so bad. If you get the boat be prepared to spend money but know that you will end up with a better boat then they are selling now!
I went with the Seamark (Potter) bracket because the bracket had a better design concept (floatation) then the less expensive metal brackets...and it was well worth the extra money. my transom is only down 2" with 100+ gals of fuel and twin 135s. My floatation equals the weight of the motors and the underwater shape is like having a giant trim tab without drag. hole shot is flat and what I ended up with is essentially a 25'+ integrated bracket Seacraft.
If you get the boat and want to upgrade the motor consider twins, the ETEC etc but put a floatation bracket on now and it may extend the life of your transom for a few years (stiffens and spreads the load)and replace as needed or stages but do it right. I have spent probably $30k and been working on it for 1 1/2 years and it is still not complete but it is a passion for us!!
Bill
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