Fuel line replacement

[copout]

Ok, I've got all the old fuel out & it's time to replace the lines. I read an old post which I can't seem to find, it had a specific fuel line from goodyear that per the poster was a bit higher in price but could stand up to ethanol. I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. The engine hasn't seen ethanol (yet) so I'd like to make sure the new lines are resistant to ethanol if thats even possible. Also I will be replacing the fuel/water separator, is there one that's better that the rest. I've also read about in-line 10 micron filters, any recommendations there?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan

[Bushwacker]

Ok, I've got all the old fuel out & it's time to replace the lines. I read an old post which I can't seem to find, it had a specific fuel line from goodyear that per the poster was a bit higher in price but could stand up to ethanol. I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. The engine hasn't seen ethanol (yet) so I'd like to make sure the new lines are resistant to ethanol if thats even possible. Also I will be replacing the fuel/water separator, is there one that's better that the rest. I've also read about in-line 10 micron filters, any recommendations there?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan

Here's a link to Goodyear's web site

I suspect the SAE J1527 hose is the one you're thinking about. Any hose stamped SAE 30R6 would resist ethanol and be acceptable for vent line or tank to filter/engine line. SAE 30R9 is better, and can be used in FI systems, up to 100 psi working pressure per the chart in their literature.

As far as fuel filter/water separators, I've had good luck with the 10 micron Racor type with the plastic bowl, which is ok if you're running an outboard (Have to use a metal bowl on an inboard or I/O.) They make cartridges for 2, 10, and 30 micron sizes. That plastic bowl contains a drain valve, which is handy for checking for water or phase separation. Be sure to use a good fuel stabilizer like Stabil; otherwise E-10 fuel can start to degrade in as little as 2-3 weeks! Also, if you get enough water in the fuel to combine with all the ethanol (called phase separation) you can lose as much as 3 points in octane, so buying 90 octane fuel could be considered cheap insurance! Otherwise the 87 octane fuel you bought could end up as 84 octane fuel at the engine, which I think is the biggest danger with ethanol fuel!

[MasterBaiter]

I was told as long as the fuel line was USCG approved type A1 it was ethanol safe. Mine is not Goodyear but fits the bill. I run two filters, one the Racor type and another a canister type. Both are 10 microns - which are "supposed to" filter out water.

I only know what I'm told.....

[copout]

Well call it what you will but I think my father was looking down the road when he rebuilt back in 96. He used all A2 SAE J1527. So it looks like all I have to replace one section that runs from the spliter valve (2 tanks) back to where the new racor will mount. Both ends are showing some cracking & there's not enough to material to cut & re-clamp.
Thanks for the replys.
Ryan

[copout]

1 more question regarding the fuel line & you might render it obvious however I forgot. Where does the primer ball go? tank-filter-ball or tank-ball-filter
tank you!

[76Red18]

Mine is tank filter ball.

[copout]

That's the way I set it up but read some where else it was the other way around. I even read that someone put a ball on either side of the filter...ocd?
Thanks!

[Old'sCool]

Tank - Ball - Filter. You'll be there forever after you change filters if not.

[76Red18]

Your right, it does take a couple minutes after a filter change to reprime. web page

[Bushwacker]

Just make sure primer bulb is firn beford draining filter. If you do that, there should be enough fuel in engine system for it to run long enough to fill the fuel filter.