1976 Seafari Fuel Tank Removal

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

This is the definition of "Pitched and Pinched"!!!

After seeing the photo, I remember you asking me how close the stringers were to the side of the tank? Think mine was about 1.5" on each side, therefore your tank is narrower, but longer. Yea I'd hate to do it either, but cutting the glass is easier and safer than cutting the aluminum. If it were mine I'd examine cutting carefully forward and then vertically downward to a horizontal cut near the cabin stepdown. That would be the easiest to repair and less obtrusive than at the aft end. If you slide the tank aft you should have clearance to use a scroll saw (called a sabre saw when I was a kid) to cut without hitting the tank. BTW noticed your fuel sender was at the forward end; wonder how quickly the gage read empty? Mine was towards the aft end.

Another anecdote from an "old man" (now me), sometimes best to think about it awhile- sometimes the best idea comes later! I spent months figuring out how to put a PerfectPass speed control under the hood of an ETEC. Good luck Michael

[Vezo, Part II]

Nope! Never cut finished glass! Cut metal like a hot blade thru butter! I will get this BS done... ;-D

[Vezo, Part II]

Ok, tank is out. Had to use a Saws-All and a short bimetal blade. Of course I went through all the trouble of backing up to garage, under deck and using large wall mounted fan from rear of garage. Attempted to cut lower aft bead of tank weld (about a half inch of relief is all I really needed), was going quick until she started pouring that old crap into the clean bilge. Broke down entire operation, back out in the yard for rain and sun exposure. Today finished the cut all the way across, and out she came!

Terry, is your Seafari an outboard? Appears to me your replacement is 60 inches long, which is longer than this 25 gallon. I'm thinking I need to cut the floor out where dog house hinges were located, removing the glassed cross members where the inboard engine mounts were, and extending tank full length. I have a transome rebuild waiting and want to do it from the inside, cutting in a 25" transom height, leaving seats, and glassing in a new splash well. This boat came missing ONE thing: the fuel hatch! So just make it longer.?.

[Bushwacker]

Vezo, glad to hear you got the tank out! I think I would have cut off the lip at front of opening that that the hatch rests on, as that could be easily glassed back on. On the ~34 gal OEM tank on my '72 (which I'm still using; they were wise enough to not put ANY foam around it in '72!), about 3' of the bottom sloped up at the front so it would clear the front edge of the hatch, and the aft 3' or so of the top was sloped down, probably so the aft part of the tank would clear the aft edge of the hatch. I've had my tank out a couple of times, and it's about a 5 minute job, once everything is disconnected!

The '76 models had a smaller step down and a longer 50 gallon tank, and I'm sure the sketches Terry provided probably show a similar taper on the top and bottom of the tank. Besides removing the added cross members that get in the way of the tank, have you considered going with 2 smaller tanks, which could probably made larger, w/o the tapered top and bottom, and still fit easily through the hatch? Two tanks would allow you to adjust the CG a bit, and might allow you to leave one tank empty most of the time for short trips.

Regarding the limited steering travel on the modern SeaStar system, I was amazed to learn that it was designed that way on purpose, per NAEBM specs! Evidently there are so many liability lawyers running around loose that NAEBM is terrified that some idiot will put the helm hard over at WOT, flip the boat, and then sue them because of his own stupidity! (Never mind that the typical cable system will do that all by itself if you just let go of the wheel!) I believe it's possible to get almost full travel by just mixing and matching old and new parts, because I've seen older SeaStar systems that provide much more travel. Hope to work with Don Herman to resolve that issue in the next couple of months.

[Vezo, Part II]

How are you Denny? After speaking to FlexPat, who gave up his room for me at Sebastian, I have decided to go traditional transom at 25" and a 5 in 1 manual jack plate that I am familiar with on my previous Whaler 15 Sport. Also, after the ride with you I am no longer a four stroke guy. However, I am into torque and will be shopping an Etec 175 when the time comes.

As for the MA, I am busting my Azz to get ready for the trip to Homosassa. I think I can pull it off. Fired the 99 OMC 175 three weeks ago. She is starving for fresh air! And should have my OMC mechanic on board for MacRae's. Looking forward to getting back.

Thanks

Michael

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

How are you Denny? After speaking to FlexPat, who gave up his room for me at Sebastian, I have decided to go traditional transom at 25" and a 5 in 1 manual jack plate that I am familiar with on my previous Whaler 15 Sport. Also, after the ride with you I am no longer a four stroke guy. However, I am into torque and will be shopping an Etec 175 when the time comes.

As for the MA, I am busting my Azz to get ready for the trip to Homosassa. I think I can pull it off. Fired the 99 OMC 175 three weeks ago. She is starving for fresh air! And should have my OMC mechanic on board for MacRae's. Looking forward to getting back.

Thanks

Michael

Hope to see you at MacRae's . . . looks like a neat spot! I agree, it's hard to beat the DI 2-strokes for torque, and they're basically very simple engines with a lot fewer moving parts! I've been very impressed with what BRP has done to make 'em quiet, with excellent quality, economy, low maintenance and sophisticated electronics! And I think you'll be better balanced with the motor hanging on the transom! That should be a nice rig when finished!

[Vezo, Part II]

This looks similar to my conversion from I/O to outboard vision. I reached out to a member who did a one off engine cowl similar to a Sea Vee, but he did not have a mold. If I were very careful removing glass integrated portions of the original Dog Box, would anyone be interested in building a mold for reproduction. This one is really in great shape?!? Maybe Hermco?

Vezo, Part II

[Vezo, Part II]

I guess it's time I learn to correctly size my pics.... Apologies.

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

How are you Denny? After speaking to FlexPat, who gave up his room for me at Sebastian, I have decided to go traditional transom at 25" and a 5 in 1 manual jack plate that I am familiar with on my previous Whaler 15 Sport. Also, after the ride with you I am no longer a four stroke guy. However, I am into torque and will be shopping an Etec 175 when the time comes.

As for the MA, I am busting my Azz to get ready for the trip to Homosassa. I think I can pull it off. Fired the 99 OMC 175 three weeks ago. She is starving for fresh air! And should have my OMC mechanic on board for MacRae's. Looking forward to getting back.

Thanks

Michael

Michael, glad you successfully removed the fuel tank and survived cutting it. Now you'll have another discussion topic for the fall gathering. My 1976 Seafari 20' is an outboard (from birth). The 1976 SeaCraft brochure shows the Seafari had a 47 gallon tank in the outboard version and 38 gallon in the I/O version. As for your ride on Denny's ETEC powered Seafari, yes they are torquey, particularly in the lower rpm range. There was a BRP video which showed identical boats in like a tractor-pulling contest; the only difference was ETEC vs Merc and ETEC vs Yamaha. The ETEC won hands down. This low end torque was actually a problem initially for me holding a constant wakeboard speed until I overcame it with a High Five prop and a PerfectPass speed control. I have been happy with my ETEC once I overcame this issue- the ETEC is quick starting, quiet, and thrifty on fuel.