#11
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A gusset or knee glassed from the hull side up the bottom of the cap is the best fix.
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http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
#12
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I had not thought of that. Thank you. This will have to be a spring time fix unless I see a few days in the 50s still
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#13
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swivel rod holder for tuna means you should test it with 50lb of drag, if your using a swivel your giant hunting with 130s right. dont fart around with 30lbs of drag on a 130.
i had the same issue as you on my 23. i used coosa or whatever transom composite had lying around possibly from a buddys 23 rebuild. i cut 45 degree all around the piece, glassed it up with epoxy no mat, forget the cloth, but lay a few layers down both sides, cover the 45 degree cuts. i used glass tape in 2 and 4 inches as well for edges. glassing upside down sucks, eye goggles, cover the interior area for drips. i pulled my entire bow locker as it was rotted so made this easier. i did not run glass over the entire coosa then, just around the edges since it was already glassed. normal stuff, sand up the coosa. add thickener to the glass and I added extra fast sauce. minimize the glass drip upside down. what i also did was buy the optional swivel rod holder brace used for mounting vertically, and then bought ss 6" or such screws and sent those through the brace on swivel and out the vertical bottom part of the gunnel, just below where the hand rail is recessed on a 23. nobody has ever seen my fine work until a buddy this fall napping during a tuna day on anchor, looked up and said nice work u do that upside down? yup. no need for knees. i can take a pic tomorrow if you want. course i never put the bow locker piece back, and now i lost the rotted remnants, so maybe some day. its pure cosmetic anyhow.
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--------- 1977 Seacraft, Armstrong Bracket 275(chipped 250!) Verado Merc Rev 4 17P |
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