#1
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floor drains..Two questions
Hi All,
I am the new owner of a 1973 20' cc. Hull and transom are sound but floor was waterlogged. I have ripped the top skin and core out and am all prepped to lay down some 3/8" Divinicell foam and then a new outer skin. Any suggestions for how much of what type of fiberglass cloth to use? Second question concerns the floor drains. I will be leaving the boat on a mooring with a 2007 ETEC 115HP and need the cockpit to be self draining. The two floor drains that go straight down through the hulls won't work! There is a drain angled upward as it goes aft and through the port aft battery locker and out maybe 1" above the painted waterline. Any suggestions on how to assure the boat doesn't fill up with rainwater? Much thanks. |
#2
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Have you thought of raising the deck 2".
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#3
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Thanks for the reply. I did think about raising the deck but decided against it as I wanted to use the inner skin. Now the core is down and I don't want to go backwards. Have I backed myself into a corner?
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#4
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Quote:
ex: Port floor drain over to the starboard side scupper thru the transom & starboard floor drain over to the port side scupper thru the transom
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#5
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Nice Graphic Captain Chuck!
I did a search for Carl's wet feet solution but didn't come up with anything. Can you point me to the thread? Am I correct that you are suggesting I patch over the current drains as they come out through the bottom of the hull and then just below the floor, cut the down tube and put an elbow into it so it goes aft. Then run tubing to flaps out through the transom on the opposite side of the boat? Are the current flood drains typically above or below the waterline when the boat is at rest with no one aboard? |
#6
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I had '75 20SF with a 2003 Johnson 175 2 stroke at 385 lbs. - batteries & oil tank under the console and the 47 gallon aluminum fuel tank pushed forward as far as it would go. Kept the boat on moorings or wet slipped and never had an issue with the through the floor drains. I did always keep the in the floor livewell drain plugged when I left the boat for a few days. My drains were about 1" above water when the boat was at rest with a full tank.
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#7
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Quote:
if you search "scuppers" or "floor" drains you will come up with more reads than Hillary's emails. I don't remember as I had a 23'. so you need to filter them some how to see solutions / pictures from other members who have a 20 footer that have changed their scupper config to a suitable solution. Someone help here like "NoBones" please
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#8
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I have an older 150 Evinrude on back of mine and use the cross-over to opposite sides and it keeps me pretty dry. Not sure how well it works letting water out. How bout an automatic bilge pump in your baitwell - sort of like a sump pump.
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#9
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Quote:
I question that your transom is solid if it is original.. Raise your deck 2 inches ! Going through replacing the deck is a perfect time to do the transom and raise to 25 inches. I plumbed my drains through the transom with Rabud scupper balls. They are below the water line but still drain perfectly even with a heavy rain... My deck is above the waterline at rest due to raising the deck 2.5 inches.. You will never drain with the original configuration..
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See ya, Ken © |
#10
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Thanks for all the input. Now that I have your attention, what are your thoughts about how much laminate to use for the inside skin over 3/8" divinicell foam core? We have 1.5 oz mat, 6 and 9 oz woven cloth, 12 oz biax and 34 oz triax. All fiberglass.
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