trailer bunk fit - 23 SF

[captsuperfly]

I just got a good deal on a clean load rite aluminum bunk trailer that was used to carry a 23 Regulator (24 degrees deadrise). I'm hoping to use it to carry my 23 SF.

The main bunks are set up on their sides, so an angled side edge would rest against the hull. Aside from sliding the bunks across the crossmembers to fit the hull, there is no adjustment to change the angle of the actual bunk on the resting edge (unlike some bunks I've seen that rest the face of the bunk agains the hull and can pivot to adjust for dead rise.

I am adding some front centering bunks which will be easy enough to adjust.

I'm tryin to determine if I'll need to re-cut the angle on the bunk to accommodate the difference in dead rise. Does anybody know the dead rise angle of the 23 SF hull just inside of the chine where the bunks usually rest? Has anybody gone through this?

[bigi]

I believe it's 10 degrees at the chine in the patent. Need to confirm it's the 23 in the patent.

[Capt Terry]

I would have thought the patent preceded the 23’ by a few years and maybe it did for a production version of the 23’. Don’t know when Potter arrived, but thought he was instrumental in the 23’.

Per the Moesly story:
His first design using the VDR hull was a 23-footer, all out of plywood, built only to be a test boat. The bottom was painted red and white to highlight the unique feature of the hull... longitudinal steps. Named Si-Vad (Davis spelled backward), it was thoroughly tested in the Miami to Nassau race (1961). It performed better than Moesly expected, but he had a few ideas to make it even better. He shortened the design to 21 feet, made a few adjustments to the longitudinal steps, compounded the curves for fiberglass and increased its load carrying ability. A wood/fiberglass plug was built and a mold produced.

[uncleboo]

If it's not too much trouble, load the boat on the new trailer, if the bunks are close, and take your measurements. Cut the new angle and adjust the width of the bunks so they catch the outside section to yield a lot more stability. You may be able to cut the height of the bunks down to lower the hull making it easier to unload on shallower ramps. Measure twice, cut once.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1571430558
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1571430603

[uncleboo]

My old Hitch Hiker trailer had vertical bunks that I did that way when I replaced the old ones.

[captsuperfly]

Thanks to all! Interesting that I called the dealer that sold and set up the trailer originally and he tells me (and another dealer confirms) that Loadrite doesn't customize the angle of the upright bunks. It's just a standard angle (though neither could tell me what that angle was.

I will likely install the new front centering bunks and adjust the existing rear bunks to meet the hull just inside the chine. I'll see what the angle looks like. If the angle on the bunks looks too aggressive, I may just take the boat home (only about 15 miles) and jack up the boat off the bunks and replace them with adjustable bunks that rest the boat on the face of the bunk instead of the edge, like uncle boo's. That way, I can adjust the angle front and back.

[Capt Chuck]

Once you get the hull aligned on the bunks. Take a piece of cardboard and trace a pattern of your transom. Make a "Cradle" bunk and secure to the crossmember. Coupled with the forward bunks will prevent your hull from mis-alignment when loading.
It will seat properly everytime!

[Bigshrimpin]

Loadrite makes some awesome self adjusting bunks on their trailers. They are galvanized boxed steel with multiple self adjusting bunks to support the hull at different points. I just bought one of these for a new project.

[captsuperfly]

Bigshrimpin, I am considering getting those bunks.

We put the boat on the trailer and right now, the bunks in the current position carry the boat on the second step (right under the stringers). The existing angle seems nice and flush.

The issue I had is I used an impact gun to put on the stainless hardware for the center bunks and, because I hadn't used an impact gun with stainless before, I galled two of them up good and they needed to be cut off to be moved. So, we were able to move the hardware out of the way and we placed a 6X5 piece on the front crossmember to replace the keel under the bow. I will NOT be using an impact gun on stainless again. I'll need to address the center bunks next pass.

I'm noticing that the transom hangs over the bunks by about 5 inches. I'm not super concerned just yet (since there is NO MOTOR OR BRACKET YET and the outdrive from the IO has been removed along with the motor). So, there's no weight hanging off the transom. I will likely just block up the keep at the transom for a little support while it sits in the project cue waiting to be worked on. Obviously, once I hang the bracket and motor I'll move the boat a bit forward.