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  #1  
Old 04-02-2020, 09:00 AM
Enyar Enyar is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2018
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Default Rigging tunnel for under the gunnel

Wires running up the gunnel on my boat are just zip tied from hardware piece to hardware piece which just doesn't seem ideal or look clean. Thinking about 5200ing or plexusing a PVC tube or L bracket all the way up the side of my boat to run the wires through there.

Overthinking this? What have you done?
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2020, 09:35 AM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Use electrical grey pvc. Last long being UV
Resistant. Cut/Bend(heat gun)your lengths. Put your pull string in first. Let the 5200 set up awhile. Then a small dab every few inches or so will hold it in place up in the cap grove.
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  #3  
Old 04-03-2020, 02:14 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Great idea! The P/O wrapped my harness and rigging connections in something like flashing tape and screwed to side of boat. It did a great job holding water in. I toyed with putting it under deck but just too much drainage down there for me.

I used 2-1” pvc gray tubes like chuck suggested. Used a 90 deg bend behind the helm. Mounted under gunwale.

1 tube is electrical. In retrospect, could be smaller since I’ve moved batts forward. But I still need rigging for rear electrical stuff, tabs, lights, speakers, engine electrical cables
1 tube is engine rigging.

I mounted them using pvc pipe clamps. Stagger the clamps if necessary. You can adjust pipe sizes as necessary.

I recommend using pvc primer and heavy gray cement if you can get it. I couldn’t but have had no issues using regular cement when you use lots, twist it, and hold it together.

Great question, chuck gives a solid approach.

Ps you can easily run a pull string afterwords using a small cloth or paper towel and a vacuum.
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2020, 09:45 AM
Enyar Enyar is offline
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Thanks guys, I will do just that.
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2020, 11:03 PM
wattaway2 wattaway2 is offline
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If space is tight and your looking for the maximum of cable room you can use schedule 20 PVC pipe as the OD is the same as the regular schedule 40 but there is a slight increase in the inside diameter. Note that if your making bends or sweeps you will be advised to seal off the ends to keep the heated air inside and keep the very thin pipe from collapsing it can be bent but is much more likely to collapse without the extra care.
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