#11
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Thanks everyone for the information. It looks like the 2/0 wire is the way to go. One last thought could I run the 2/0 to a block on the transom then switch it to a #1 or 1/0? I think the 2/0 will be a bitch to get through the harness.
I found a guy with the same motor who is willing to do the amp test this weekend. I will report back the results. Thanks |
#12
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You can run the 2/0 to a block on the transom and then switch over to the factory outboard battery cables. Very standard install.
I used one of these in the transom with a 3/8 stud: https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...Dual_PowerPost I looked on my Sceptre today and I guess I did end up using 1/0 from the batteries to the transom. Oh well, I thought I had used smaller stuff. Ran the OEM Evinrude cables through the rigging tube and hooked them up to the power posts. Engine has a dedicated battery. Used an Automatic Charging Relay to charge the house battery. Batteries are under the floor by the helm.
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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I wouldn't try running 2/0 through the rigging tube, splice lugs at the transom is the way to go. Another thing to consider is shortening the factory leads if you have a large amount of excess coiled up at the transom.
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#15
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Actually it will not. As long as the smaller tap cable is on the load side you will negate the majority of the line loss in the 2/0 running from the front to the connection point at the transom. I also agree that ridding any excess coiled wire from the motor feed is best. Wire coils are chokes (resistors) and add to the load.
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[b]The Moose is Loose ! |
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