RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

Allison · #1 09-24-2002, 06:08 PM

I HAVE A 1978 18' SEACRAFT THAT I AM IN THE PROCESS OF COMPLETELY RESTORING. I'M LOOKING FOR A NEW RUB RAIL THAT WILL REPLACE THE OLD. WOULD LIKE TO MAYBE PUT ONE ON THAT HAS A STAINLESS STEEL INSERT? DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS ON WHERE I MIGHT FIND SOMETHING?

THANKS

JOHN · #2 09-24-2002, 06:34 PM

I just had a friend do the same thing..call
Taco Metals, 305-652-8566 in Miami, Fla..

Rich · #3 09-24-2002, 06:45 PM

http://www.tacometals.com/marine/rubrail_mouldings.html

Tom · #4 09-27-2002, 10:09 AM

A tip for installing a new rub rail I learned from one of the pros. 1) do it on a very hot day and leave the rub rail in the sun for a long time before getting to it. 2) lay the rub rail out on the deck, or, loosely under the boat on the trailer. 3) fasten the stbd aft corner first, drive in 3-4 screw at the spacing you will use all the way around (2"). (this assumes your rub rail is pre-drilled or hole punched) 4) fasten the port aft side, but do it so that the rub rail as it goes around the deck is "too short" to lay naturally. The idea is to attach both sides aft, and then come along and "STRETCH" the rub rail with some force around the bow. 5) use some liquid soap detergent to get it to slide over the bow, the drive one fastener (or bolts) at that point. You want the "stretching" to happen when the rub rail is hot and flexible, and it should be tight enough to require two guys' effort. 6) Go along each side at 4 - 5' spacing and drive in some fasteners, maintaining the proper mounting height relative to the rail/cap. Keep shortening up the spacing on the fasteners until its done all the way around. This method will eliminate the "Wavy" rub rail syndrome. I like to use fast cure 5200 at each fastener with a small countersink drilled in the cap/hull to allow some sealant to accumulate. After its done, seal the top and bottom of the rub rail with silicone to keep water from spraying up or dripping down and to provide a nice clean joint. When doing this (I've done it solo) it helps to have a friend. Keep a can of WD40, and several ROLLS OF PAPER TOWELS. When you are wiping the 5200, just throw the paper towel away after 1 wipe. WD40 is the best solvent for 5200. Same method applies to inserting the insert -start aft, and stretch around the bow.

FELLOW-SHIP · #5 09-27-2002, 02:12 PM

HA THE OTHER TOM
THAT’S SOME GREAT INFO BOY I WISH I NEW THAT ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGO. I HAD A HECK OF A TIME TRYING TO DO MINE. I PUT THE OLD RUB RAIL BACK ON TO MY BOAT (AT LEASE FOR NOW) I AM THINKING OF REPLACING MINE WITH NEW. SOME ONE TOLD ME THAT THE RIDGED RUB RAIL FROM TACO IS REALLY GOOD STUFF. I MIGHT TRY THAT WHEN I RE DO MINE.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Tom · #6 09-27-2002, 03:37 PM

Fellow-ship. Yeah, I did one the "hard" way once, made a huge mess and it didn't come out perfect like the factory guys do it.

I used the TACO rail the last couple of projects, I went direct to their factory in the Golden Glades. You can also buy from Railings Unlimited in Lauderdale (behind Lesters) they have a large selection and will negotiate. They also have various inserts (including the SS). Make sure that whatever brand/style you choose, get one that has a very hard plastic backing "built in" to the rub rail. The backing will help keep sags from occurring between fasteners. Its more expensive, but worth it. Any plain rubber rail is going to look like it was an afterthought. Taco and Railings Unlimited also sell various end pieces for the termination.

FELLOW-SHIP · #7 09-27-2002, 04:29 PM

HA THE OTHER TOM
THANKS FOR THE INFO ON RAILINGS UNLIMITED I THINK I HAVE SEEN THEIR STORE WHEN I HAVE GONE DOWN THAT STREET TO LEWIS MARINE HARDWARE LOCATION. I ALSO HAVE SEEN TACO’S PLACE ON I-95. I DECIDED TO GO WITH THEIR TELESCOPING RIGGERS ON MY BOAT. I KEEP THEM STOWED UNDER THE GUNNELS AND ONLY USE THEM WHEN NEEDED. TOMORROW LOOKS LIKE THE WEATHER WILL BE OK PLANNING ON DOING SOME SAIL FISHING IN MIAMI.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Briguy · #8 09-27-2002, 05:29 PM

Is it possible to retrofit a SS rubrail into the origonal SeaCraft rubrail without pulling the whole thing apart?

Allison · #9 09-28-2002, 07:55 PM

Hey Guys
Thanks for all the info on replacing the RR. I will let you know how it goes. I live in Bermuda so the tough part is actually getting the correct required parts! It's not easy but well worth it when done correctly. I'm sure I'll have more questions so you'll definitely be kept abreast!
Allison

Reel Smoker · #10 09-28-2002, 11:27 PM

I like Fellowship re-installed the original it was'nt in that bad of shape ,though it was a pain and we were 2 I cant emagine doing it alone. I kinda soften it up with a blow dryer the second time I did it, the first I use a small torch very carefully I put some heat on the back of the rubber and that helped alot. RS.