#1
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Refinishing original teak
I have pulled all the teak out of my Sceptre, have stripped it with a chemical stripper, than used a teak cleaner (Amazon One Step), and I am getting ready to put Teak Oil on it. This is the original wood (I believe) on an 89 (Tracker) Seacraft. Anyone have any suggestions on what to put on it, I am planning on using Amazon Teak Oil, is there a polyurethan or epoxy base that is better? The wood has mild to moderate weathering on it.
[ October 18, 2002, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: JohnB ] |
#2
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Re: Refinishing original teak
jon - i have used sikkens cetol on my boats with aged teak and it remains intact forever.
at a boat yard where a guy was doing some routine maintenance on a 58 bertram (immaculate) I noticed he was not using it - he was using regular marine varnish. I was re-doing one of my boats at the time and we got to know each other really well - he was a hired caretaker for the boat and told me (after a few beers) he would not use sikkens cetol because it would put him out of work! You only need 4 coats of the stuff and a clear sealer can be put over it for cosmetics but the stuff is great. When I get my Seacraft - and I will out some teak into the finish work - I will use it again |
#3
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Re: Refinishing original teak
Hi,
Sikkens cetol is ok . But to make the teak bullet proof, I recommend 2 or three coats of MAS expoxy and then 3 to five coats of awlspar varnish. When my rig gets out of the motor shop I will post some pics of the Mahogany dash I made for my 1976 20SF I/O seacraft. I also used this method on my equally classic 1969 36 Hatteras. Still holding up after 6 years. Just my two cents worth. JW [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] |
#4
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Re: Refinishing original teak
I find the best way to keep teak is to leave it natural, no oil or varnish. Give a good sanding and then clean with a two part and a 3m pad always against the grain, never use a hard bristle brush. Then periodically use the step 2 when you wash down.
If you want the varnished look build up the teak with a good quality varnish 6-7 coats then finish up with a coat of Awl grip varnish, this should last for years. |
#5
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Re: Refinishing original teak
JohnB,
We used Sikkens Cetol on our Sceptre and after 3 seasons it still looks great. Especially on the hatch covers in the transom corners where they lie horizontally and are always exposed to direct sun. A good cleaning then three coats or so and you're good to go. The guys who don't recommend it seem to be the ones from Florida, which makes sense - longer season. Seeing as you're in Maryland (I think?), you're season isn't a whole lot longer than mine in MA. The Sikkens should work well for you. ScottM |
#6
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Re: Refinishing original teak
Thanks for the replys, spent 2 days cleaning the old stuff up. Decided to try Sikkens cetol. The boat is on the trailer when not in the water, an is usually covered to keep some of the sun off. I am in FL, and the sun down here seems to destroy most everything.
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