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  #1  
Old 10-21-2002, 12:48 AM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: 44.41 -75.79
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Default '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

I finally got to start the long awaited rework of my 23. After removing the console and the fuel cell hatch, I found the entire 8' long panel to be rotted as the glass work on the bottom wasn't finished well and let water in as the caulk failed. Fortunately, everything else looks great.

My consern is with the fuel cell. I can't believe it's 8' long! Is there a way to test it or any thoughts on the wisdom of replacing it or removing it to see what's up down there? What about the foam? Should I repack it when the new panals go back on?

She gets fresh paint and all new hardware. I'd hate to have to go back in there.

Thanks in advance.

Otto
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  #2  
Old 10-21-2002, 09:23 AM
EBEACH EBEACH is offline
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Location: Connecticut
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

Otto,

This should help: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

This website has some great information on boat surveying and repairs.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2002, 03:41 PM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

Fellowship,

Thanks for the input. I know you were going to say to pull it out. I don't mind doing it cause the demolition is half the fun. However, I'd have to cut out the fiberglass lip that holds the hatch in place, but you're right, it would suck to have to go back in there.

Is your new tank baffled and how did you secure it?

Regards,

Otto
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2002, 04:05 PM
Billybob Billybob is offline
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Location: watertown ct.
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

Otto - Like fellowship says, pull it out.I don't know what you mean by the f/g lip - it must be different than my 73.It seems odd that they would put the "lip" down after the tank was in there assuming its part of the deck.My tank is about 100 gallons, and when I pulled it, the bottom had some surface corrosion beginning, but I just sanded it down and sealed it with a good alum finish (forget what I used), and then reinstalled, using Pascoe's method.My wood under it was rotted too, so I had to glass a new one in there first.You sure don't want to do it in a year or two.I am baffled that you would have to cut the lip off though - seems strange, got any pics?
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2002, 04:32 PM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

BillyBob,

I sent you some images. Maybe there's enough room to tilt it up on one side and lift. (Thank God for forklifts) You'll see.

I guess I should drain the 300 pounds of fuel first, huh?

Thanks for your advice.

Otto
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2002, 05:25 PM
FELLOW-SHIP FELLOW-SHIP is offline
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

I don’t think you will have to cut the lip out of the deck to remove the tank. I used a small diameter ½” round old rod blank to break small chunks of the foam off and bush in into the bilge area. On my boat part of the lip was badly damaged from a sagging deck breaking down the lip so after I installed the new tank I build up the bottom of the lip with strips of 2”x 2” x 8’ Fer laminated. With epoxy and also screwed I attached the Fer strips to the stringers they also crossed above bulk heads I made out of ¾” marine plywood in front and behind the tank. This gave me additional support for the new deck plate and boxed in my tank. You could just glass and epoxy under the lip if they are damaged. As for the baffles my tank has 5 baffles that were build into the tank for additional support and for the back and forth action of the fuel in the tank. I also had the tank made with 90 degree bracket welded in the front and back of the tank which I drilled and put screws through the bracket and the new ¾” plywood deck that supports the tank. If you go with a new tank and deck for the bottom of the deck you might go with ½” instead of ¾” and make sure they don’t make the fuel fill pipe to high or you could have a problem with the new top deck fitting over the fuel pipe. Mine was a close fit.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2002, 05:35 PM
ocuyler ocuyler is offline
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Join Date: May 2002
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

Fellowship,

Thanks for the info. It helps to have some knowledge and confidence going into it. I really appreciate your input.

Having had a closer look, I see exactly what you're saying and agree. The building up is important as the deck lid was only screwed into the thin lip and most screws were stripped.

I found Pascoe's website, thanks to Ebeach and it seems pretty strait forward. I'm taking images as I go and will share them as I get a little further.

Maybe I show get the shop heater working pretty soon. It's cold out there!

Otto
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  #8  
Old 10-22-2002, 01:02 AM
FELLOW-SHIP FELLOW-SHIP is offline
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Location: Cooper City, Fl
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Default Re: '89 23' CC fuel tank condition

I replaced my gas tank on my 1977 23’ when I did the whole boat. I found pit marks about ½ the way through the aluminum tank where salt water was held next to the tank by the foam. I also found that the wood support under the gas tank was totally rotten and was in need to be replaced. You will only know about your tank if you pull the whole thing out to inspect it. The places that could be damaged would be on the sides of the tank and the bottom plus the plywood deck that holds it in place. I used the David Pascoe method of re installing my new tank and if you take it out that method is the best I know to replace it. You also could have the tank pressure tested to see if I still good. For me I didn’t want to spend all this time re doing a boat and then have to go back and replace the tank afterwards I spent $600.00 on a new 120 gal tank down here I got quotes all the way up to $1,200 for my tank.
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