imrom paint

flyfisher · #1 10-24-2002, 09:06 AM

has anyone use it and not had a professional do the job? what safty percussions did you take? did you use it outside
or in a make shift paint both? and last has anyone use the roll and tip method using it?

Miles Offshore · #2 10-24-2002, 09:52 AM

Go to ClassicMako.com(75 Inboard restoration) and look at my old Mako Inboard I did in Imron. The pix are old but they are not too bad. We painted outside. Use cartride type respirator at a minimum when painting. I do not know about the wet and tip method. Prep is the most important process I ran into, sanding all the little corners and crevices. (wet sanded everything using 600/800 grit wet/dry. We intentially painted the deck on what was to be a high humidity night and it dulled the deck paint for a nice-not glossy/wet finish. The fish-eye eliminator was a waste of money (IMO) and actually caused instead of eliminating them. Also a lot of time was taken taping off the boat with newspaper before painting. Hope this helps-craig

Billybob · #3 10-24-2002, 09:57 AM

Flyfisher - I researched a lot when I redid my boat.My outside was already Awlgripped when I got it, and I was debating on what to use on the inside.To make a long story short,I would not spray any 2 part poly (Awlgrip,Imron,Interthane)without a respirator WITH AN AIR SUPPLY.I spoke to a lot of people including a guy at the boat yard, who had a fellow there lose a lung due to it.So I sprayed a single part petit in my cockpit/deck because I felt there were too many angles to be rolling and tipping.It has held up well, but the non- skid on the floor is scuffing up on me.So in the spring I will roll and tip the non skid with a 2 part.Guys have gotten excellant results rolling and tipping 2 parts, and you don't have the safety concerns with this method(still use a respirator)- In fact I think that beautiful yellow 20 (Fellowship's I think)was R & T.This is just the info I have picked up during my project, but if you decide to spray a 2 part - check it out very carefully.
Bill

FELLOW-SHIP · #4 10-24-2002, 10:20 AM

HA FLYFISH
I DON’T KNOW TO MUCH ABOUT IMROM PAINT I NEVER USED IT. I JUST HAVE HEARD A LITTLE NOT ENOUGH TO COMMENT ON IT. BUT I HAVE USED STERLING PAINT (DESIGNED FOR BOATS) IT IS A 2 PART PAINT THAT WAS RECOMMENDED TO ME BY SEVERAL MARINE REPAIR PEOPLE IT HAS EXCELLENT PROPERTIES FOR THE ROLL AND TIP METHOD. I PAINTED MY 23 THIS YEAR WITH THE STUFF AND IF I HAD TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN I WOULD USE IT AGAIN. I TALKED TO THE ALL GRIP PEOPLE AND READ A LOT ABOUT ALL GRIP PLUS BOUGHT A TAPE ON THE ROLL AND TIP METHOD OF APPLYING ALL GRIP BUT THE PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE PROPERTIES OF STERLING OUT WEIGHED ALL GRIP. MANY BOAT YARDS DOWN HERE USE STERLING IN PLACES THEY CANNOT SPRAY. THESE 2 PART PAINTS CAN KILL YOU IF YOU DON’T HAVE GOOD VENTILATION AND SPRAYING WITH OUT A FULL SUIT PLUS A VENTILATION MASK WITH A HOSE COMING FROM ANOTHER LOCATION PUMPING IN AIR IS VERY RISKY. I HAVE NEVER PAINTED WITH SPRAY AND WITH THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE POTENTIAL HEALTH RISKS ROLL AND TIP OUT SIDE ON MY DRIVEWAY WAS THE ONLY SOLUTION I WAS WILLING TO USE. I JUST USED A 3 M CHARCOLE MASK AND KEPT AS FAR AWAY FROM THE WORK AS POSSIBLE. I WOULD RECOMMEND THE MASK THAT COVERS YOUR FACE WITH THE 2 FILTERS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE MASK COSTS ABOUT $40.00. PAINTING MY BOAT WITH STERLING COST ME ABOUT $1,000 FOR EVERYTHING. I GOT QUOTES FROM $4,000 TO $6,000 TO DO THE WHOLE THING. ROLL AND TIP WORKS GREAT. IT LOOKS LIKE A PRO DID IT AND IT LOOKS LIKE A SPRAY JOB. I PUT JUST 2 COATS ON THE BOAT AND RAN OUT OF TIME I AM GOING TO SAND IT ONE MORE TIME AND PUT ANOTHER COAT ON THE OUTSIDE WHEN I HAVE 2-3 DAYS FREE.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Rich · #5 10-24-2002, 12:03 PM

I am planning on painting the exterior of my boat this spring. I will be following the Procedure that FELLOW-SHIP used, roll and tip Sterling. My question is: What's the deal with the boot stripe? Typically is the boot stripe painted on? Or is it some sort of Tape? I know, dumb question...

I assume it is painted on. What is the procedure?

[ October 24, 2002, 11:47 AM: Message edited by: Rich ]

Scott · #6 10-25-2002, 02:10 PM

Flyfisher

Here is a link that has a lot of info in it about painting....I have talked with the formulators and technical personal at both Sterling and Awlgrip (along with a few pros in my area)....Personally I would go with Sterling....Extremely helpful and very convincing about the ease of the roll and tip method. If having it done by a sprayer (a pro with all the proper safety equipment...) then I would most likely go with Awlgrip. Oh by the way the tech people at Awlgrip really didn’t feel to good about recommending the roll and tip method...Even though they have a video out on how to do it.

Painting

Rich .... Thats personal preference....Paint is more involved but you will have infinite colors to choose from and I think it looks nicer than vinyl tape....procedure ....prep work sanding etc, masking , priming, and painting......unless its going over a fresh coat of a similar product then I would think you could go over it with a couple of coats and be good......Good question for the Manufacturer that you decided to go with !!!

flyfisher · #7 10-26-2002, 01:11 AM

thank you all for responding. i was just wondering because i here so many now using it. and i was always told
how dangerus that paint is. i didn't know if they had made a change to it to make it easier to use. i'm in the
market for a 23ft project boat. for when i retire in a little under two years. a 23 will be better then my 20ft mako for off shore use. i'm thinking of a 23ft seacraft or mako. i'm leaning toward a seacraft only because i like the lines on them. i guess when i get started i'll stick to gel coat. i've used it before and didn't have any problems.

rcnight · #8 10-27-2002, 02:44 PM

I recently painted a flats boat I built with Imron. I used all DuPont products and was very pleased with the results. Its very forgiving & sprays on easily. I used my little 5 gallon 2 hp air compressor. I worked mostly indoors in a make shift spray booth. As with any paint job, the final coat is only as good as all your prep work. You can probably spend 3/4 of your time on prep with the last 1/4 actual spray time. I also thought about using Sterling and researched it as you have done. My only concern was I never actually saw a finished boat in person to judge just how good the finish was. I know what a good spray job should look like. I thought spraying would be easier for me. Cost wise, it wasn't that much more to use Imron and I got all my supplies and assistance locally. If you decide to spray, you might practice on some furniture or even some old junk cars. Either way, painting can be very satisfying. Good luck!