inside or outside

[tangofniro]

Hey guys,
I know that there has been a lot of discussion in the past on transom repair but since a lot of repairs have went on in the last 6 months maybe some new facts will arise.
On a transom replacement can anyone give me the pro and cons of both going from the inside and going from the outside. I would like to go from the inside but the stringers look to make that idea very hard. Going from the outside though looks to cause quite a bit of finish work. I am looking for the best way to go even if it is a little more work.

Thanks I know that this has probably been discussed a million times but here we go for a million and one

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I REDID MY 23 FROM THE INSIDE AND I KNOW THIS IS A PERSONAL THING BUT FOR ME GOING FROM THE INSIDE MAKES MORE SENSE FOR A FEW REASONS ALL OF THEM ARE A STRENGTH THING. ONE IS I ADDED A KEEL FOR EXTRA SUPPORT FROM THE CENTER WOOD STRINGER TO THE TRANSOM ANOTHER REASON IS THE AMOUNT OF GLASS ON THE INSIDE WALL OF THE TRANSOM IS NOT AS THICK AS I LIKED IT SO I MADE MINE A LITTLE OVER ¼ “ THICK. YOU CAN ALSO SUPPORT THE TRANSOM FROM ALL AROUND THE HULL BY BUILDING IT UP FROM THE INSIDE WITH EXTRA LAYERS OF GLASS I ADDED 8 EXTRA LAYERS AND YOU CAN ADD EXTRA GLASS TO THE INSIDE SIDE OF THE OUTSIDE WALL OF THE TRANSOM WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS (I ADDED TWO EXTRA LAYERS). AS FOR THE STRINGERS THAT’S NO PROBLEM AT ALL JUST CUT IT FREE AND GLASS IT BACK ADDING ADDITIONAL GLASS FOR MORE SUPPORT. I DID MY TRANSOM ABOUT 1 ½ YEARS AGO NOW AND AT THAT TIME THE COMPOSITE MATERIAL FOR TRANSOMS HAD ONLY STARTED MAKING INROADS INTO THE MARKET AND THERE WERE SOME BUILDERS THAT WERE HAVING SOME PROBLEMS SO I WENT WITH PLYWOOD. I HAVEN’T HEARD OF ANY PROBLEMS IN A WILL AND NOW A DAYS I MIGHT HAVE GONE WITH THE NEW COMPOSITE MATERIALS INSTEAD OF THE PLYWOOD.
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[tangofniro]

Fellow Ship what tools did you use for the job of getting around in those tight spaces? UI plan on using a router and I guess side grinder and chisels. Any other that may be some help to me? I am in the process of ripping the old foam out to have acces to the bottom of the transom and around the stringers. I guess you would know it is tedious work.
Thanks

[cSickNick]

I struggled with the same questions, but decided on a 3rd option. Going through the top. It's out there somewhere.

I found that the old transom came out easily with the old chain saw. Also electrical paddle bits with extensions do a great job on mulching up the hard to reach areas.

I have some picts if needed.

For the pro's and con's, i will leave it to the experts. It appeared to me that it is a "toss-up" and that ones most weighted varibles(Cost, experience, time, restoration, materials, etc ..) would decide which option is best.

For me, lack of experience, cost and time were the heavy weights. This pointed me to an external person to do the glass work that allowed me to remove the old transom to save $ and time.

- Nick

[FELLOW-SHIP]

THE SIDE TYPE GRINDER WAS MY FAVORITE TOOK ON THE FIBERGLASS CUTS THROUGH THAT STUFF LIKE BUTTER MAKE SURE YOU USE A MASK AND SOMETHING FOR YOUR EYES THAT STUFF GETS SPREAD ALL OVER. AS FAR AS THE WOOD SOME GUYS WILL TAKE A SKILL SAW AND SET IT FOR 1 1/8 “ AND CUT A CHECKERBOARD PATTERN IN THE NOT SO ROTTEN WOOD THEN CHISEL OUT THE CHUNKS. I USED EVERY THING EXCEPT MY WIFE’S KITCHEN KNIVES. I ALSO USED A SANDING WHEEL ON THE GRINDER TO CLEAN UP SOME OF THE RUFF PLACES THEN ADDED 2 LAYERS OF GLASS TO STIFFEN IT UP A LITTLE. I USED THE WEST EPOXY SYSTEM NOT CHEEP BUT WORKS GREAT. YOU CAN SEE MY WORK ON THIS SIGHT UNDER KEN MCGOVERN 23’ BOATS.
WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE PLYWOOD OR SOME OF THE NEW COMPOSITE MATERIALS?
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[tangofniro]

I plan on using some 1/4 luan. Should finish up the foam removal today. I plan on using epoxy just not west.
'You laid 2 layers of glass before you even started installing the new core? How long did you wait before installing the core on the old skin?
Anymore have good ideas on templates to use on the transom besides cardboard?

[FELLOW-SHIP]

YOU CAN START ANY TIME YOU LIKE FROM TACKY TO HARD BUT RUFF SAND IF IT HARDENS. I USED A SHEET OF 1/8 “ WOOD WALL BOARD ATTACHED IT TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HULL WITH CLAMPS TOOK A PENCIL AND TRACED THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL DESIGN ON THE WOOD CUT IT OUT (INSIDE THE LINES) AND IT FIT PRETTY GOOD I THEN GROUND IT TO EXACTLY FIT. AFTER THAT YOU CAN TRACE THE NOTCH IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO INSTALL A BRACKET BUT WAIT UNTIL YOU GET YOUR BOTTOM FITTING CORRECTLY FIRST BEFORE YOU CUT IT OUT.
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[Rich]

I did mine from the outside. Cut the outer skin 2" from the edge all the way around. I cleaned out all the wet wood and ground down to the inner glass. I used a method of multiple layers of 1/4" luan soaked with epoxy, and 1708 biaxial cloth that I got from Raka.com. I tried to get fancy with cardboard and make a template, but that didn't work too well. I took a full sheet of Luan and strapped to the back of the transom and traced around the outside to get the template, than adjusted accordingly. I first rolled out and saturated each cut sheet of luan with slow cure epoxy. I did each piece twice. The lay up was as follows:

Laid first sheet of luan flat, pre cut cloth on top of that, wet out thoroughly with slow cure epoxy. Placed that combo with the wet surface up against the inner liner and temporarily screwed it into place. Followed that procedure 5 more times within an hour's time. I built it up just enough to allow the outer skin to go back on and fit flush. Using different methods with screws and clamps, I pulled everything together and let it cure. To fill the voids around the outer edges I took cut strips of 1708 cloth soaked in Epoxy and jammed it into the empty spaces. I took the old outer skin cleaned it up, covered it with a thickened epoxy (cake mix consistency) and smeared it all over the inside of the outer skin. Set that in place and clamped it down.

Faired with thickened epoxy to get everything flush and looking good.

I raised my Transom from 25" to 30" in the process.

Advice:

Make sure you have a couple of people around to help. Because of obvious time constraints, things can get messy. I had the help of two other people.

Make sure you have PLENTY of epoxy. I almost ran out. The cloth that I used, the 1708 Biaxial from Raka is thick and really sucks up the epoxy. I think I went through 2 1/2 - 3 gallons.

Don't get over zealous with mixing up huge quantities of epoxy. Once it starts to kick in a large mass, it's all over. We would mix up enough to thoroughly wet out the cloth on top of the next sheet of luan and then repeat the process.

Needless to say, I don’t have to worry about the transom anymore.

Going from the outside worked for me. I didn’t have to cut up the inner liner for any internal structural problems or modifications. Going from the inside would have been a lot more work for my situation.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/cgi-b...c;f=3;t=000034

My 2 cents……

[ April 02, 2003, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: Rich ]

[abl1111]

What is Luan ? I will be re-doing the transom in my Tsunami as soon as I can pull/sell the (2) i/o's I have in there now. I'll also be removing present engine stringers and installing new ones for a single i/o. Has anyone done this job that you know of ?

I will be going from the inside and was planning on using (2) 3/4" pcs of plywood and polystyrene resin as replacement.

As for tools to get the old core out ? I can get my hands on a compressor - if I was to buy a tool for the compressor to remove the core, what would it be ?

[tangofniro]

Luan in the simple explanation is just finished plywood, no knots.