rub rail installlation

WillyC · #1 08-13-2006, 07:41 PM

Anybody know the approximate spacing for the screws when mounting the rub rail to the boat. This week I plan on thru-bolting the cap to hull joint with 4 inches between each thru-bolt. Then when its time to mount the rub rail, screw it to the boat with 4 inches between each screw having them fall half way between each thru-bolt. This would mean two inches between the thru-bolts and the screws. What do you think?

NoBones · #2 08-13-2006, 08:36 PM

Depending on what type of rub rail you plan on using,
that sounds good. I used the Taco rub. I laid it on the hot
asphalt for about two hours. This way it would stretch easier. I tied a rope to the end, started at the bow, then
tied the rope to my trailer hitch on the truck and moved the truck to put pressure on the rub rail. This way there would be no voids in the installation. Good luck.
See ya, Ken
Make sure to chock the wheels on the trailer if you use this method.

strick · #3 08-14-2006, 01:41 AM

Which boat are we talking about?

Strick

WillyC · #4 08-14-2006, 01:55 AM

My project is a 1976 20sf. The hull to cap joint has been glued together with 5200. After applying the 5200, I used existing screw holes to pull the joint tight. Next I removed all the screws and filled all the holes (over 500) with thickened epoxy.

strick · #5 08-14-2006, 02:17 AM

I just measured my 1969 20sf as I have the rub rail off right now. There is 7 inch spacing between the screw holes on the rub rail. There is 13 inches spacing between the rivits that hold the hull to the cap. Your hull to cap joint is going to be stronger then crap. You may not need to go that close with the bolts.

strick

WillyC · #6 08-14-2006, 10:07 AM

Thanks Strick, super strong is what I'm hoping for.

other tom · #7 08-14-2006, 03:29 PM

besides doing the install on a very hot day and leaving the rub rail in the sun for 6 hours before, I was shown a good trick by some pro riggers a few years back....

Start at the transom, screw the bitter end of the rubrail in with 2-3 screws, then lay it out on the deck all along the stbd side, up to the bow, and then back down the port side. At the very bow, lay it out so that its about 4-5" short, then come back to the bitter end on the port side and tack it up with 2-3 screws. Now, go to the bow, and stretch the rubrail around the bow, and if you did it right, it should sit there under tension. drive one screw in on the very bow. Then, you can drive your screws in on 4" centers around both sides. This method avoids the drooping, hanging sags between bolts/screws. Finish it off with white silicone (if you have a white deck ) on the top gap, and black on the bottom. Use several cans of WD40 when wiping the silicone excess off....

klaucke · #8 08-14-2006, 11:13 PM

My original rubrail looks like it was held on ABOUT every 7 inches. It varies from 6.5 to 7.5 spacing. I used through-bolts to hold the rubrail itself on (all stainless w/ nyloc nuts). It took a long time, about 25 man hours, but this was an aluminum rubrail w/ rubber facia which required I drill each hole in the rubrail as I went.