1974 23 CC - project

[thehermit]

I have been working on my 23 for a couple of months now. I was very lucky to score some inside space for a few months so I am trying to make the best of it. With 2 heaters going and burning $20 of kerosene a day I can even get epoxy to cure .

Transom: layup is 2 3/4 marine ply in bed of cabosil then 3 layers glass (1708,18oz roving,1708). Stringers tabbed (1708)...knees are 3/4 marine and 1708. Plans are for a bracket.


















Thats all for now...

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Looks pretty good and will last you another 20+ years.

FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

[thehermit]

Time to refresh this post Lots of sanding and fairing going on. End may be in sight soon and I am dreaming of primer and 'sky blue' paint. Anyone ever use "bilgecoat"? I am looking to try something new below deck and on hatch bottoms.
Pixs:
hatch cores:


Transom almost fair: if anyone has a clue on the brown base let me know. The boat had green bottom paint that seemed to wear totally off. Then it left the white haze (on left). Hit that with a sander and you get brown . Original barrier coat? I have no clue. Plan is to keep hitting it with 80 grit and use 'Hydrocoat' over it. ??


deck getting there:


and the classic air filled with dust photo

[ROBCAR]

Nice work...... Doesn't look like it'll be ready for summer....?

[Caymanboy]

Not a real fan of "bilge coat" basically it is an enamel, which will end up peeling, seeing as you are using epoxy I would tend to use interprotect 2000/2001 or something similiar, the bottom paint was probably a copolymer "sloughing" sp? paint, which will wear quickly when scrubbed or sanded, yet it is an all season paint which allows you to haul numerous times and not let the paint go bad, if you where to use a hard "epoxy" paint, it would not wear off, yet you would have to repaint the bottom every time you hauled and it will "build up", don't forget the copper issues.

[Islandtrader]

I have used SW tile clad in the bilge. It is a 2 part epoxy.

It has a nice gloss and can be rolled and brushed. One of the main uses of this product is coating the inside of water towers...so it is pretty tuff.

[thehermit]

don't forget the copper issues.

??

Plan is to sand with 80 grit and apply Hydrocoat ablative. Boat will be moored. I'm done with hard epoxy on the bottom.

OK bailed on the "bilgecoat". Picked up some epoxy primecoat and 2 part barrier coat from the Boaters World liquidation sale May also check out SW tileclad.

[thehermit]

Doesn't look like it'll be ready for summer....?

Thats why I have 2nd SeaCraft Well actually this is my second SeaCraft...I hope to splash it by July but I am stuck here....


The transom is fair and I did get some epoxy primer over the transom I/O holes....


..and the hull sides have been sanded and are almost ready for the Signature Finish "sky blue". While watching fairing compound dry I have been painting below the chine with Pettit Hydrocoat ablative...sill a little wet in pic.


I spend the day in the shop and when I leave everything looks the same except for the new 1/4 inch of dust all over everything .

I am planning on doing the bilge with 2000e grey barrier coat. I have 1.5 qts left over from something else and may burn it up below deck. Any reason not too?

[KenB]

... Plans are for a bracket.

If you are doing twins or are handy with the torch, I think Dana at Millway has some old brackets. Both have the swim platform and are set up for twins. Dana thought that filling the holes, either with bolts and 5200 or with a torch would not be bad. Price was a bit high but much less than a new bracket, even a single.

I am going to ping warthog on the classic mako site and see how his twin DF140s are treating him (and ask him why he went with twins in this day and age...) I actually prefer twins, but I don't think there is a logical reason to do twins (worse gas miles, can't plane a 23 on single DF140, more money on motors, if anything goes wrong on a 4s it is gas related which screws up twins too, etc.)

I was going to suggest the petit epoxy easypoxy primer (6149?) for the bilge. I think epoxy does not let water through. If I had cash I'd get one of those hermco brackets, those things are the bomb. Actually, if I had cash, I would have hermco do the whole thing who am I kidding? Anyway, you build looks like it is coming along really well.

[thehermit]

Well...plans are for a single floatation bracket for my 225 Johnson Ocean Runner.....single carbed bad boy . I used epoxy primecoat in the bilge (final) and on the deck reapir (primer).

problem is when you prime it all the pin holes show and then the fairing compound shows up again.

I have been "refreshing" the console on the side and after 3 top coats its ready for a new windshield.
before:

now:


The hull sides have 4 coats of signature finish on them. Due to applicator error it will be getting a 5th and final coat. It looks pretty nice but I wait till its done for the pic.

Has anyone ever painted over the factory non skid??

If so what did you use, how did you prep, and how is it holding up?

I am thinking of painting the deck to match the repair from the I/O. There are a few geloat repairs to be made but I would'nt want to grind down the non-skid and then put it back like I did on the gas tank hatch and forward locker hatch cover. Over all its in good shape.