Scupper replacement??

[seastrike]

I want to replace the scuppers in my 1978 20 foot master angler, i believe thats what you call them?? If not the two drains in the back of the boat.

What is the proper way to get the old ones out. What should i replace them with?? Brass maybee?? What about the angle of the hull, or do i just use a good bit of 5200 to fill the gap left by the angle of the hull?

[seastrike]

let me add one more thing,,,the scuppers are plasic, and i assume original. No major promlems, just seem to me like i should replace them. I could just use 5200 to reseal tops and bottoms of the scuppers. Would sure be alot easier!!

[seastrike]

Finally got pics to post,,, i am thinking now that i will just clean out the old silicon on the top of the scupper, and re-silicone,,,then on the bottom i will clean and seal with 5200

[76Red18]

Nothing likes to adhere to those plastic fittings including 5200. If you want to stay with those fittings, o-rings would seal them tight. Loosen them up enough to clean between the fittings and hull and deck surfaces then stretch an o-ring around each fitting and tighten them back up.

[McGillicuddy]

Seastrike, here are a couple of links that may help you out.

I used brass tubing from Moeller cause thats what my '72 had, and I couldn't find any thing else. Getting them out was much easier than I anticipated. I knocked in/off the flange with a screwdriver or chisel and used a 1" schedule 40 pvc pipe and hammer to tap it out.

Dry out the holes with some alcohol and ream the holes well to get the mush out. They are held in place by a glassed in 3" cube of wood and that may be deteriorating to some degree That is often the unsuspected leak point). You may even want to over drill and create an epoxy wall liner on that block before reinstalling. As far as the gap on flange angle against the hull, it should be nominal once its snug, and the 4200 or 5200 will fill the space as you compress the flange to the hull and deck. Moeller makes a tool to flare the brass tubing ($35 or so if you go with brass) Here are a couple of links to my feeble repair (not pretty but it doesn't leak). Good luck. There are many posts regarding this topic so do a search and see what's best for you. Good luck.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...rev=#Post73676

http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...pper%20Repair/

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...rev=#Post77032

[seastrike]

got the scuppers out,,here are the pics. wood block holding the scuppers is definatly wet but with a propper repair it wont be a problem. In your fix, i am a little confused?? Is the pvc piece permenant?? Basicly if i understand right, you gouged out rotten wood,,,capped off bottom of hole,,,inserted pvc,,,,poured epoxy around pvc,,, installed brass tube through pvc?? is this correct??

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[McGillicuddy]

Sorry for the confusion. The pvc was not permanent. I pulled the pvc before the epoxy fully hardened. I used it as displacement for the epoxy - just to use less epoxy and so it wouldn't set as fast (the bigger your epoxy batch the faster it cures), and allow for better seeping into the wood. In retrospect I could have taped off the bottom and just filled it with a thicker epoxy mix, let it set and then drill. It probably would have been easier to drill rather than having a hollow center.

Yours looks much like mine one good one kind of bad... one of my blocks was pretty bad and you could see a stream running down the stringer from the block while at rest in the water. It sucked up a lot of epoxy before sealing the wood. The epoxy serves to reconnect and seal the the hull to the block to the deck. probably, Theoretically, if properly sealed you would even need the tubes.

One more thing, I would use 4200 or 5200. I'm not sure silicone has any place in this equation in fact, their combined chemistry may be detrimental to one another. I used 4200 because I know somewhere down the road this will be required again...
Hope I clarified that.

[Islandtrader]

I'm not sure silicone has any place in this equation in fact, their combined chemistry may be detrimental to one another.

Just adding to MG statement.

Silicone sealant is a gasket material---Period. Silicone depends upon mechanical compression to maintain its seal. Not a good choice for this application