Rework of 20SF -1973

[APL]

I wanted to start this thread with a thank you to the members of CSC. Since I decided to purchase my new to me SeaCraft i have spent countless hours reviewing the labor (and excellent pircures) of some of your boats to get a better idea of how this project will go. Without any further ado, here she is...














She's a 1973 hull #206. I am the 3rd owner, the other two owners were related by marriage (owner 1- new-1984, owner 2- 1984-today).

Originally equipped with twin 65hp outboards. Redone in '83 with the single 1983 Mercury 150 Black Max. The aluminum plate was presumably added then to clean up the transom from various holes from the twins.

It started life as a yellow hull, then painted at sometime white. The hull appears to never worn any anti-fouling paint. All the origional hardware is present on the boat plus 2 perko rod holders. The bow rails seem straight although worn in certain places. I cant decide whether or not to keep them or strip them off and fill the holes, Ill leave that up to the decision of if they can be polished out.

The transom seems solid. I laid into it with a mallet and heard a uniform solid sound. It appears that it had been redone once by looking at some odd cuts in one of the hull vents. The deck on the other hand is shot, soft spots all over. the casting platform is solid as is all the hatches and the cap. The origional seats are gone, but no big deal, I intend on putting a leaning post in anyways (in addition to a T-top).

The windshield is intact, however may need to be replaced as it is showing age and I am still debating redoing the console (right hand steering seems odd to me).

The previous owner reported that the motor needs a CDI pack ($105). It was seized up from sitting but I got it loose. The lower unit seems good as it goes into forward and reverse. The steering is a Teleflex cable which I intend on replacing with a SeaStar unit. New Mercury binnacle already installed. I will need to rewire the motor as it does have some corrosion in the wiring harness. My plan is to get it running then do a further diagnosis. If it will require more than a couple of hundred dollars I plan to repower with a carbureted Yamaha (probably a 200) or a OMC outboard. I want to stay 2 cycle that is what I grew up running and working on and I know of too many people who have had issues with their EFI motors.

That is all there is for now. Progress updates will be forthcoming as soon is there is something to report. I welcome all input you all may have to impart.

[wtenglish]

Kudos on taking on a project of this magnitude. Looking at your pics brings back a lot of memories. Look forward to following your restoration along the way!

[Caymanboy]

Good looking project! Start getting used to the phrase, "Might as well"!

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Hi APL:

There a few things I love about a totally trashed SeaCraft.

You don’t have to question what to fix the answer is EVERYTHING.

Another thing I love about SeaCraft is they are easy to work on. Since they are a 3 part hull design you can remove the cap off the boat and do what ever you need to it. With the cap removed it is easy to get to the transom to fix it. You can remove the CC and work on it. Plus the deck, gas tank and bilge is easy to get to as well.
I am not saying re doing a boat is easy work but SeaCrafts are easy to get to your project and pretty simple to figure out what to do.

Another great thing is this sight PLENTY of pictures lots of talk of past projects so can learn from others the best way to do your thing. All you have to do is do some searching and you will have more info then you would ever need to know.

And for me one last point – EPOXY resin it will provide all the time you need to do your thing and for me that was a definite plus. I could do all the work myself with out needing others to help because of the time restrictions of the resin kicking to fast for one guy to manage on his own.

P.S.
I hope you like Beer you will need several cases to complete this project,

The project will cost 30-50% more then you thought it would and it will take twice the time you thought it would take. Trust me on this

BEFORE





AFTER





FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official 23’ SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

[APL]

Thanks for the positive feedback fellas. Might I say beautiful work on your hull Fellow Ship.

I am already expecting this to be a long project, but I am not in the least bit apprehensive, partially due to that I have been working glass since I was a teenager, This isn't my first (nor presumably last) boat. I also have a '83 Boston whaler Sport. And like I said earlier I already know what it looks like down there (mulch) thanks to the excellent pictures provided from you all.

Btw, no beer for me, but I do hang pretty tight with my man Jim Beam...

I am planning on removing the console and tank today just to get an idea what i am working with. The previous owner said that it had fuel in it the last time run (2006). I queried him as to the quantity and he was unsure, hopefully we will find it fairly empty...

Before all this I need to go through the wiring on the trailer. I got the lights to work by supplying 12v to them, but the harness is shot.

Let the fun begin.

[mitchman]

I have a 69 20fter and have a crack developing in the same spot on my transom as yours in picture #5. Please post lots of pics of the demo & restoration , I'd like to monitor your progress as I have lots of similar work to do myself!

[APL]

Today was seemingly productive, I got a few things accomplished. The first task was to redo the wiring for the lights on the trailer It appeared as if rats or decades of neglect had taken their toll. The trailer is a 1976 Seminole (any one know anything about those?) tandem with 4 mix matched tires or 13" rims. Gonna need new axles tires springs basically you name it. The galvanized frame is in great shape.

As it pertains to the trailer, does anyone have any experience with registering one of these with the Florida DMV? The seller couldn't find the title, however he had two registrations and the vin is legible (surprisingly). I was under the impression that any trailer over 2000 lbs needed to be titled. The old registration lists the weight at 870. It still has his old tag on it 4 years expired. Any information and or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Moving right along to the hull, as I mentioned earlier I planned to remove the console and the fuel tank hatch. I was able to get the console unscrewed rather easily due to the rotted floor (the only good thing about rotted wood). and moved it aside. The console is gonna be a project all by its self, its had some additions and subtractions of electronics and fixtures on it over the years. I plan to keep this console as I like the origional pieces on he boat and structurally it doesn't have any serious damage, just cosmetics. I think I can rehab it in a weekend. I was reading in one post about using duct tape as a backer for filling holes with epoxy, I think I am going to give that a shot. I am going to keep the provisions for the mercury outboard trim and key switch. Whenever I upgrade the motor I plan to add a teak or mahogany plate over the holes.

With the console up I got at the fuel tank. After removing what seemed to be a couple of caulk tubes of 5200 that were sloppily applied whenever the tank was done I was able to get the hatch off. Its in excellent shape with no damage or delamination issues. The tank looked good, there was a sticker on it that said AAA fabrication, Hialeah, FL. The gallon size was correct for the hull, however the date stamp was illegible. It seems to be in good shape, I immediately noticed no smell of fuel in the bilge or eminating from the tank, thought that's a good sign. I didn't see any corrosion on the topside, but that's as far as I could see. I attempted a removal, but it wouldn't budge (yes, I took the retaining screws out) I am guessing due to what appears to be 30-40 gallons of old fuel in it that became visible when I pulled the sending unit. Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of this amount of fuel. It doesn't seem real stale (like the kind that causes atrocious varnish) but still not fit to be run. I am thinking of siphoning it out a little at a time and pouring on concrete or dumping it in the tank of my old IDI Diesel F250 with 30 or so gallons of diesel (Ive done worse with that motor and it keeps on going).

I kept coming across sand all over inside the hull. Its definitely sand like we have on the east coast of Florida, little bits of shells here and there. There is probably 20lbs of it in the boat. I also came across what looks to be insulation (the yellow stuff, not the pink) was that a factory thing? I see no purpose for it being there.

That is all for now. By the way, I know west marine sells a brand of epoxy that doesn't blush and I cant remember the name, anyone remember? I really want to get on this console project while I am waiting on ordering my marine ply.


Tilted the console up and went to work. I cut most of the wires as they were trashed anyways, they should make good chasers for the new wires though.

The fuel tank is finally reavealed

Fuel Filler hose literally fell apart in my hand.

[mitchman]

Nice progress! You might be able to run the bad gas in your diesel...maybe a adding a little with each fill up...but I am no expert so hopefully someone else can chime in. However, I know the dump around me takes waste fuel and oil in any condition for free since they recycle/sell it. Please don't dump the fuel to the ground, its not a good idea.

[CaptLloyd]

Welcome to the site and good luck with the project!

If you are looking for no blush epoxy, try Marinepoxy from boatbuildercentral.com. They are out of Vero Beach, great service, fast shipping, much better price than you will get from West Marine, and I believe one of the guys is redoing a 23'

[McGillicuddy]

APL,
Looks like you have something to do this winter

As far as non-blushing epoxy goes I've found this stuff to be excellent in price and quality.

http://www.jgreer.com/index.htm

The owner, John, answers the phone and is very helpful. $132 for a 3 gallon kit $44/gallon.

Welcome aboard and enjoy your Jim Beam - in moderation of course