And So it begins

martin · #1 04-14-2012, 10:41 PM

Started to dis-mantel my Seacraft. .. I want to say thanks to Strick for giving me the courage and insight to tackle suck a Labor of love. This boat definitely need to refurbished. ..After removing the Harware and console. there was definite rot in the transom and decks..
So I basically decided to do away with the liner and replace the floor and beef up the Hull. I never thought that these hulls were that thin.. Atleast mine is... And the spray foma is crazy. But I am glad it just falls off the glass in sheets..

McGillicuddy · #2 04-14-2012, 11:42 PM

As strick may have mentioned, you don't want to leave that cap off too long or the gunwales will fall and deform some, then getting the cap back on will be extra work. Some of the guys have made retainers out of 2x4s by cross-cutting slots about 7-1/2' apart and placing the slots over the gunwale edges in 2 or 3 spots to keep the beam where it should be. That helps to keep the sagging at bay. Not sure what you mean about doing away with the liner - is your intent to core the hull? Others probably have a better idea on this but me thinks the liner adds considerably structural integrity to the boat. Good luck, looks like a nice clean project.

martin · #3 04-15-2012, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McGillicuddy

As strick may have mentioned, you don't want to leave that cap off too long or the gunwales will fall and deform some, then getting the cap back on will be extra work. Some of the guys have made retainers out of 2x4s by cross-cutting slots about 7-1/2' apart and placing the slots over the gunwale edges in 2 or 3 spots to keep the beam where it should be. That helps to keep the sagging at bay. Not sure what you mean about doing away with the liner - is your intent to core the hull? Others probably have a better idea on this but me thinks the liner adds considerably structural integrity to the boat. Good luck, looks like a nice clean project.

Thanks,,yes I am goin to core the hull, replace the deck, and enclose transom with live well

strick · #4 04-15-2012, 09:06 AM

Takes guts to do that. Wimps need not apply

I'm sure it will turn out great when you are finished. If I were to ever redo another 20sf or a master angler I would remove the forward casting platform and make the deck flush to the bow and add a coffin box with a live well built into it. Have you seen the Lefty Kreh edition?

martin · #5 04-15-2012, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strick

Takes guts to do that. Wimps need not apply

I'm sure it will turn out great when you are finished. If I were to ever redo another 20sf or a master angler I would remove the forward casting platform and make the deck flush to the bow and add a coffin box with a live well built into it. Have you seen the Lefty Kreh edition?

Very Nice Rig. Maybe I will do that.. I am trying to not make to much work for me. a I was thinking of keeping the Liner fward to help hold the shap in.... until I saw that the Center stringer or Keel Is wood with glass over it. and allthough it is solid It is saturated with water and there are void foward that are holding water... I need to address. With that said i am going to remove the Liner and Jig the boat up.Or visa-versa..
What do you guys think about replacing that Keel ... Will the boat deform? should I replace in sections?? How can I replace with out damaging the shape of the hull? Whoops I said 76 when it is a 73 20Sf

McGillicuddy · #6 04-15-2012, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin

Maybe I will do that.. I am trying to not make to much work for me.

Good thing your ONLY coring the hull

Dang, that is a lot of foam. Haven't seen too many keels replaced either... I've talked to a guy about drying out wood with heat and air via vacuum or pressure through numerous small holes and then infusing the dried wood fiber with epoxy... kind of more in depth git rot concept...he uses this technique for spot transom and deck repair but seems like it could be effective in a keel as well.

Anyway, don't let me slow you down.
Looking forward to watching your project develop.

martin · #7 04-15-2012, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McGillicuddy

Good thing your ONLY coring the hull

Dang, that is a lot of foam. Haven't seen too many keels replaced either... I've talked to a guy about drying out wood with heat and air via vacuum or pressure through numerous small holes and then infusing the dried wood fiber with epoxy... kind of more in depth git rot concept...he uses this technique for spot transom and deck repair but seems like it could be effective in a keel as well.

Anyway, don't let me slow you down.
Looking forward to watching your project develop.

Yea i think they were trying a Boston whaler experiment...this thing had foam in everthing but the has tank..lol

martin · #8 04-15-2012, 11:03 PM

ON with clean up and grinding of Hull. Not bad for a weekend.. Now that everything is out I can plan and design How and what to do

martin · #9 04-15-2012, 11:08 PM

again

Bushwacker · #10 04-15-2012, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin

.... until I saw that the Center stringer or Keel Is wood with glass over it. and allthough it is solid It is saturated with water and there are void foward that are holding water... I need to address. With that said i am going to remove the Liner and Jig the boat up.Or visa-versa..
What do you guys think about replacing that Keel ... Will the boat deform? should I replace in sections?? How can I replace with out damaging the shape of the hull? Whoops I said 76 when it is a 73 20Sf

Martin - I wouldn't worry about the keel. There are several layers of glass over it which provide most of the strength, so even if the wood were totally rotted, it has minimal effect on stiffness. Some guys have even replaced that keel with half of a ~2-3" PVC pipe to allow for drainage from the front with no ill effects. Might want to drill some holes into the void to drain the water, but other than that, I wouldn't worry about it. If you'll click on the Classic SeaCraft Home down at the bottom right of the page and then go to the Literature section, check out the 1969 Boating magazine article on the Seafari 20. If you can't read it, send me a PM with an e-mail address and I'll send you an Adobe file of the article. It has a very detailed description of the laminate schedule (number of layers of glass and type/weight of each layer) that will give you a good idea of how these hulls were built - there is a lot of glass in them in exactly the right spots.

Carl Moesly "proof tested" his construction techniques by racing SeaCraft's in the brutal Offshore Power Boat series in the '60's, where they totally dominated the outboard division! It's all documented in Carla's new web site: http://www.moeslyseacraft.com/seacraft-stockboats.html and in this thread that Big Shrimpin posted last month of the 1967 Bahamas 500: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=23715 That race was so rough that 75% of the boats entered dropped out, but all 3 SeaCrafts finished the entire race!
Denny