Bedding deck to Stringers

[Tashmoo2]

I am about to bed deck to stringers. Deck will rest on stringer with little to no gap. It takes too long to thicken epoxy so I was thinking of using heavy duty exterior liquid nails and counter sinking holes for screws. I read most of the threads on deck replacement without any indicating the bedding compound used.

[McGillicuddy]

Thickened epoxy and weight, iron weight stacks, 5 gallon buckets full of rocks, whatever. I think if your bent on using a caulk gun get a case if west systems six10 thickened epoxy. It ain't cheap but...

[65Bowrider]

Over time, liquid nails gets brittle and will break/crumble ... Not a good thing to use.
I agree with Gillie.

[Islandtrader]

There is a product from systems three called gel magic, a two part epoxy that you mix. http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...lMagic-c16.htm

Specifically designed for optimum adhesive properties. Not a general-purpose resin made for coating and then modified with filler to act as an adhesive. When fully cured, it is unaffected by water, oil, kerosene, and many other chemicals. It will not stain wood and is immune to fungus and rot. GelMagic is ideal for stitch-and-glue, plywood, strip built and glued lap strake construction. Also use GelMagic as a high strength, gap filling, waterproof adhesive for general woodworking and architectural applications.

[shine]

epoxy is the way to go, but you will have to work fast. I mixed almost a gallon per stringer (epoxy plus filler). Trick is to put epoxy in the fridge the night before so its cool, mix it with a paddle mixer and put in fillers. I then put it into empty caulk tubes to run nice fat beads down the stringers.

I actually used 3 gallons of gel magic epoxy for the stringer bedding on my 23. It was some old stock that no longer would hold shape - turns runny. I had to add a lot of silica and wood flour to the gelmgic to get it to hold a bead. Even new gelmagic will not hold more than a tiny bead. GM is great for tight fitting joints, but for bedding down stingers it will not stack high enough without mixing in fillers, and if your going to have to mix in fillers anyway, then just start in with an epoxy that costs half as much

[McGillicuddy]

The problem I see, which I think Tashmoo pointed out, is that that the working time of these epoxies is only 42 minutes (in the case of the six10).

Sounds like system 3 has a slow kick catalyst too.

Mixing your own, has a lot of variables if not very familiar with your product...refrigerating as shine mentioned is probably best.

In all cases you better get a buddy or 2 with 4 caulk guns to lay the beads and have the floor ready to place with the weights right by and set to place.

[shine]

my gallery server is down right now, but I have some pictures of how I did it on my SC. Two guys and we did it in two pieces.

[Blue_Heron]

Important for any exothermic resin product, epoxy, polyester, whatever, is to get it mixed and get it out of the mixing container as quickly as possible so it doesn't have time to get hot and kick prematurely. You don't want to mix up a gallon of thickened resin and have it kick in the mixing bucket before you have a chance to get it all poured out.
Dave

[bigeasy1]

I'll second the Gel Magic by System Three,I've used it several times and its done a great job.Used it to bond my engine beds(I/O)to the hull before I glassed them in.Friends of mine have used it with great results as well.

[Sceptre20]

How about thick beads of 3M 5200? It's adhesion is incredible