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  #1  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:15 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Default Outside in transom replacement

As many of you know I'm redoing my transom from the outside. Today I cut the template for a new transom. Looking at the stern of the boat the hull sides have a little flare to them. For those of you who have replaced from the outside did you just cut your new transom a little short on either side so it slides in without forcing it down. If that is the case do you just fill up any voids on the side with cabosil or its equal prior to inserting the new transom. Also, I will be adding more glass to the inner skin, would mat work for this or should I use woven? Did you guys add all of the glass you needed before putting it in place or did you add glass after it was adhered to the inner skin. If that is the case, it must be a pain in the ass to get glass in such a tight area without voids. A lot of questions I know but this is my first time doing structural glass work. Also I haven't used 1708 before and I'd rather alternate mat and woven to achieve essentially the same thing. I tried searching a lot on here but it seems it has been a while since anyone has done a transom this way while documenting it good enough for me to answer the above questions. Thanks guys. My rebuild thread is called "and away we go"

Elijah
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2013, 03:57 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Any ideas guys, even from those who have not done an outside transom job. Before I cut the wood I want to make sure my template fits right first. Thanks for any ideas.

Elijah
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:28 PM
McGillicuddy McGillicuddy is offline
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Here's a recent from Hiliner that shows what he found in his project...http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...dheld34&page=2
And oldbluesplayer's old post: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...oldbluesplayer
Also Bigshrimpin did his red Seafari from outside in 06 or o7 and it seems fdheld34 did one last year... I'll post'em if I find them.
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Last edited by McGillicuddy; 01-03-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2013, 10:51 AM
Bigshrimpin Bigshrimpin is offline
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see hammers rebuild.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/197120CC/index.html

This should give you a good idea of how to proceed. Just dig out the wood around the perimeter and backfill with potter putty (chopped strand, milled fibers, cabosil). This gives you a great rot proof area for sinking screws to mount traducers.



Last edited by Bigshrimpin; 01-04-2013 at 11:18 AM.
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  #5  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:21 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Thanks Tim. I'm already kinda doing something else that you may be able to see in the picture below. I have cut the last 5 inches or so off the cap in order to slide an entire transom in from the top. I think I will have to add putty on the sides as in the very corners is a very significant fiberglass "ridge" for a lack of a better term. It must have been how the joined something together. I will try to get some pics when the wife gets home to download from her computer. My real dilemma is do I add as many layers of mat and woven to build up the transom before I slide it in or should I try to do it after it is in place. I may have to do both, but if I do than I obviously won't be able to get glass all the way in the corners due to the lip I left to glass to. I don't know if I'm using the old skin yet or not it would probably be better if I did not. It would mean more fairing but it might be stronger that way.



Thanks

Elijah
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:00 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Here is the ridge I was talking about. Both pictures are of the port side looking between the inner and outer skin.





Both the port and starboard side look identical. Also if I fill the edges with putty, how cortical is is to get every last little scrap of wood out?
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:15 PM
65Bowrider 65Bowrider is offline
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Not a pro, but just did a Seacast pour transom. We were told to get it as "clean" as possible & definitely all moisture out. Suggest misting the inside with alcohol. It will help to dry it and also make it easier to chisel out the remaining wood strips.
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2013, 05:38 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Thanks , it has been exposed for about a week so far inside my garage so it should be drying out pretty good. The edges are a real pita but ill keep at it.
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  #9  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:49 PM
fdheld34 fdheld34 is offline
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Here is my transom rebuild outside in on a Grady I owned
on the grady white site
I got help from Tim (Bigshrimpin) and Buster...oops I mean Don (owner of Hermco)
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/view...hp?f=3&t=16579
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Last edited by fdheld34; 01-04-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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  #10  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:47 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Thanks fdheld, it seems a lot of people have done it that way. I don't see many people who have done it the way I want to do it. Although I did not create this plan...I must have seen it somewhere but I can't find where. Your post on the other site does help though. Thanks

Elijah
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