Replacing a deck questions?

cadeco · #1 07-10-2014, 07:13 PM

Got a Seacraft 20.4 and the deck is soft on each side of the console going to the bow. On the sides there is a channel for the water to go to the scuppers ( self bailing). I have/want to replace the floor but would like to leave that channel the way it is. How that can be done? Should I remove the floor ( let's say about 4 " from it and slide the new under ?) any help will be extremely appreciated. What do you guys think.
By the way: I bought it ( the boat) so i can have something to do on the weekends . I was expecting some thing like that to do( replacing the deck) as well as I'm thinking of closing the transom and installing a bracket. Any ( does not matter how good or bad) opinions will be welcome!

ARCH · #2 07-10-2014, 10:51 PM

Check out "boatworks today" channel on youtube. This guy has a great set of DIY videos on repairing soft deck cores. I think I looked at your boat if you bought it from frank. The soft spots appeared isolated... You need to sound the deck with a hammer to map out the soft areas first to determine if this is a complete deck replacement or if you can get away with recoring the isolated soft spots. There are also videos on repairing the cracked fiberglass and gel coat hairline cracks without tearing up the entire boat. In my opinion I would keep the transom as-is... The transom looked pretty solid. Take your time, get the boat running and use it a little before tearing into it. Then decide how big of a project you want to take on. In my opinion if you can keep the repairs isolated instead of tearing down the whole boat you will be better off dollar and time wise. Too many newbies go all out without properly planning the restoration project and then get in over their heads.

Bushwacker · #3 07-11-2014, 11:22 AM

Although the concept of "isolated soft spots" is appealing, and might be credible on a Moesly or Potter model with balsa core decks, the boat in question is a later model with a plywood core. Because the grain in plywood runs parallel to the surface, it wicks water in all directions much faster than balsa core where the end grain is perpendicular to the surface. Even though a sonic inspection may indicate it's OK, a moisture meter would be more accurate, and I suspect that once you open it up, you'll find that the core is pretty wet all over, although some parts might not have rotted out yet. This is a common finding in transoms. If you have to remove the console and derig everything anyway, then it's almost as much work to repair isolated spots as it is to replace the whole deck, so I wouldn't do that much work for a partial repair that you know is only temporary.

There is one temporary repair that might make sense and is even less work than pulling up some of the deck, and that's Git Rot! I think it works best on wood thats just damp and not totally rotted however, because you'll have to use a LOT of it if core is totally gone! An injection of thickened epoxy/cabosil might make more sense in that case. If you drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in the deck where it's soft, use a shop vac to suck out as much water as possible, and then saturate the core with denatured alcohol, the alcohol will absorb the water and then evaporate, helping to dry out the wood. Might have to do the alcohol "rinse" several times and use a heat lamp if you're in humid S. Fla., but it'll do a pretty good job of drying the wood, and once you get it dry, it will readily absorb the thin epoxy. Git Rot isn't cheap, but I think Jamestown Distributors has some generic equivalents, and it's still much less work than pulling up the deck and might not require pulling the console. I think forum member EggSucking Dog did such a repair on his 20 MA. He hasn't posted here recently, but might be worth sending him a PM, as I'm sure he could give you better first hand advice!

cadeco · #4 07-11-2014, 01:24 PM

Yes Arch. That's the one. In fact he was the one that showed me this site.

Yes it's soft and I do not want a "band-aid". I was looking for a boat to work on it more then ( believe or not) go out on it . The only thing i would like to know is about that channel on the sides leading the water to the scoopers. I want to have the deck like it was from factory. About closing the transom, i have been reading a lot about open transom ( Yes, I know that all boats used to have the not too long ago) and like the idea of having a bit more space ( maybe for a seat on the rear. I believe that the best bet would be to remove the linen( cap) but i have no space to do it and i also do not know if it would brake/crack or whatever could happen. Now: What someone thinks about those channels? How should I deal w/ them?

cadeco · #5 07-11-2014, 01:26 PM

Sorry but: To do the transom I will go from the outside .

otterhound · #6 07-11-2014, 02:23 PM

Don't know if this will help but I have an '89 Tracker built 20' SF and the deck is cored with balsa. The gas tank panel was cored with plywood squares however. Mine was soft under all the mounting points (screw holes) for the console and leaning post. I cut out the top skin with a 4" hole saw and was able to pick out all the soft core. I let it dry for quite a while, replaced the core and glassed back over it. Time will tell if I got it all I guess lol!

cadeco · #7 07-11-2014, 02:59 PM

After looking at the "Boatworks" that you suggested, I'm inclined to try that way: Instead of changing all of it just remove the top, replace the core and reseal it.

cadeco · #8 08-09-2014, 03:46 PM

I still have the question w/ the channel. How can it be done?

cadeco · #9 10-03-2014, 05:05 PM

Any help on the channels?

wattaway2 · #10 10-03-2014, 05:37 PM

In redoing my 23 ' I kept the gutters however it was a lot of work . You need at least 2" min. To tie in the sides and I had cut about 3/4 of a inch from the edge closest to the center console.i hade to grind the channel and up the sides about 2" to feel comfortable then put 2 layers of Matt if I remember 3 of biax then 3 more of 11/2oz mat followed by a bunch of sanding the deck with a 9" side grinder working down to a DA and more hand sanding! If I where to do the decks again I would make a template then build the new deck on Melamane board and then just have to tie in the edges and save a bunch of time and money on the damn 9" discs alone. Resettle one of the guys sorry can't recall who did a beautiful job this way you could even do the gelcoat except for the edges where you would ruff them up and tie in