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#1
10-16-2014, 12:16 PM
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1975 23' Sceptre i/o to outboard bracket
So I bought a 1975 23' Sceptre from a CSC member last year around this time. It was an I/O and came with a spare engine and fairly new trailer. The plan was to put the newer spare engine in and run it until it died and then convert it to a bracket. Well after pulling the old engine I found out the transom was totally junk. It looks like both ice box drains leaked considering there was no sealant around them. This looked to be factory. So the water just wicked its way from the holes to the bottom of the transom and it was just mush. So I decided to just do the bracket conversion while replacing the transom. This has already been done over last winter, spring and summer and I finally got the boat finished enough to use for the last few weeks of the season. I have a bunch on pictures I'll post and show what I did. Including building the bracket. I'll try to keep them in order as best as possible. I got a lot of good advice from some guys on here. Here are some pics of when I picked up the boat.
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#3
10-16-2014, 01:05 PM
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Then I fiberglassed in the new transom with 5 layers of 1708 and vinyl ester resin. I bonded the core which is 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood with a layer of mat in between. I used epoxy putty to bond the core in. I also had to make some stringer extension to connect them to the new transom.
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#4
10-16-2014, 01:11 PM
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After I got done fiberglassing the transom in it pretty much got too cold to do anymore until spring. So I started figuring out the bracket. I pretty much read every post I could find on brackets and figured out what size I wanted to build. The tub of the bracket is 50" wide, the platform is around 62" and a 30" set back. I made a mold out of MDF that has melamine on both sides.
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#6
10-16-2014, 02:27 PM
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Nice work!
__________________
1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com
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#7
10-16-2014, 02:48 PM
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Thanks . After the mold was built I put a clay radius in all the corners. I made my own fillet tool with a couple different size aluminum balls off of ebay and a piece of threaded rod. Cost less then $10 to make. It worked great. I would use a torch to heat it up a little and it smoothed the clay out perfect. Next I waxed I put like 4 or 5 coats of Partall paste wax in the mold then a few layers of PVA.
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#8
10-16-2014, 03:10 PM
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After the PVA dried I rolled a couple thick coats of gel coat. Then a couple layers of mat with vinyl ester resin. Then a lot of layers of 1708. I think I did 10 layers with overlaps on every corner. All the sides were around 5/8" thick and the corners over an inch. It might have been a little over kill but I figured I'd rather have it a little thick then it be to think and worry about it not being strong enough.
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