1970 20ft SF Rebuild

[RoomToMove]

My brother and I were given this hull from a local legend a couple of years ago. We have studied many of the great rebuild threads on here and THT and have finally decided to give it a go. We are starting this thread to document the build and seek advice from some of the great minds behind many of these rebuilds. This is our first rebuild. Transom has been recored and raised to 25in (west system epoxy was used). We are in our 20's and don't have an open checkbook but plan on using this boat for a long time so we want to do it right.

Plan as of now: System 3 or RAKA epoxy.

Gut stringers, raise stringers, re-core cap, reinforce gunnels, single level deck, smaller console, leaning post livewell and Suzuki DF 140.


Cheers!

[RoomToMove]

We were hoping to leave the stringers intact and simply raise them 2.5" but the foam is soaked so its got to go.

Any suggestions, removing the foam and preparing the stringers to be raised? Does new foam need to be poured?

We were thinking of cutting a narrow strip lengthwise in the middle of each leaving top bevel intact. Remove foam and build up off the old structure.

Thanks.

[Capt Chuck]

Good luck with the rebuild. Being young men (Don V doesn't remember) you have plenty of time to do it right.

4 suggestions to put on your check sheet:
1.) Brace the hull with 2x4 before removing the cap when recoring.
2.) Add a parallel brace across the transom with knees and limber holes to your raised stringers.
3.) Rethink the flat deck idea
4.) I want to see some teak on that console and awesome paint scheme so I can award another "Gucci Stamp"

[DonV]

What am I supposed to remember again?

[otterhound]

You may want to think about adding another inch and a half to the transom while it's all apart. These boats seem to like the 26 1/2" transom height. Best of luck with your project!
Rod

[dirtwheelsfl]

Piggybacking with Capt Chuck...

I would leave the cap on until you get the new deck tabbed into the hullsides. Will really keep it in shape for when you pull the cap. Write down some before widths also.
Cant tell what the stringers were extended to transom with but just bore some pvc sleeves in for limber holes.

Yes cutting the tops of the stringers inside of the radius will be alot easier when its time to reglass. I would refoam and cap to original height and then do your raise.

A good way to save some coin is layup your parts in some kind of ester resin then bond/tab into the boat with epoxy. Made the switch from e-bond to RAKA a long time ago and havent looked back!


History side question... When did the side boxes extend all the way to the bow like that?? Thought that was a later 2 stringer hull change?

[thehermit]

4 stringers and those side boxes =70/71

I thought the 4 stringer models had hollow stringers?

[Billybob]

Looks like a good project, are you in Ct?
I wish a local legend would give me a project 20.

[RoomToMove]

Thanks for the input already.

Billybob - Yes, we are in CT. We got lucky. Been brutally cold this winter...hard to get motivated.

Hermit - We thought they were hollow as well....definitely foam in there though. Drilled a hole in the top of one and saw foam so i probed it with a screw driver and the foam was soaked. Made a small hole at the base and some water trickled out....Step in the wrong direction...hehe

Otterhound - Is that 26.5 inches, keel to finish height? I wil have to measure what it is now. Thanks

Chuck - Maybe one day we will have a guchi stamp. gotta figure out how to glass first..One step at a time!

[otterhound]

These both seem to like the ventilation/cavitation plate 1 1/2" above the keel. I moved the motor up 1 1/2" on both my 20 SF and 18 SF. In both cases it made a world of difference. Both boats hopped up on a plane much faster, trimmed out better and generally ran much easier through the water. For reference the 18' has a 20" transom and the 20' has a 25". The old rule of thumb about having the plate even with the bottom of the boat does not seem to apply here.
Rod