Time for another (1979 23' Resto)

[SeaPlusPlus]

It's been a little over 8 years since I redid my 1974 20' SF, which I think turned out pretty well:






The 20 has been fantastic (and still is), but after getting married, having two boys, and moving to South Carolina (Charleston area), I find myself in need of a larger boat. Naturally I started the search for a 23' SeaCraft.

Ended up making the drive to Boynton Beach, Fl this past weekend to pick up a 1979 23' Savage for a reasonable price. Current plans are for a complete teardown, raise stringers 2-3", new Nida-Core deck, enclosed transom (Coosa)/bracket, do something about this monstrous center console, and I may get excommunicated for it but remove the cabin and make it a normal CC.

First thing is some trailer work. Need to get this boat sitting correct, WAY too much tongue weight, bunks need to be extended back around 2' and boat moved back.





Looking forward to this rebuild!

[uncleboo]

Waiting with baited breathe!

[SailorChlud]

Good luck on the project!

[SeaPlusPlus]

No sexy boat work yet, but did get a lot done on the trailer over the past 2 weeks (most of the time was spent waiting on shipments). The trailer that came with this boat was definitely made for a heavier boat. It was registered in FL as a home built as it has no capacity placte/VIN but was definitely manufactured (this does not matter for me as SC does not title/register trailers). It's an tandem axle aluminum I-Beam trailer with 6000lb axles, 3000lb springs, and 3000lb (6) lug hubs. Even though there is no capacity plate, I'm making the assumption the trailer weights in around 1000lbs - 1200lbs, giving me approximately 10800lbs - 11000lbs of capacity, WAY more than I'd ever need, but apart from a slightly stiff ride, shouldn't do any harm right?

Before I drove to FL to pick it up, the seller had informed me the bunks were rotted out so I ended up making a pair and bringing them down to install before driving back up. Unfortunately the bunk length I made was fine for the drive back, but not correct with how the boat is sitting on the trailer, since I needed the boat to move back on the trailer to get a better tongue weight I needed about 2' additional feet of bunk. Recruited some cheap labor and got to work:



Bunks are (2) 2x8x10' PT that are bolted together w/ countersunk with (6) 3" galvanized carriage bolts. I also hit each bolt with cold galvanized spray after tightening them down, because I had a can of it laying around. I cut a bevel in each one to match the hull and then put some outdoor carpet on each one, leaving the bottoms uncovered so they don't hold water against the bottoms of the bunks.







I replaced all the rusted galvanized hardware and before installing it coated all the hardware that comes in contact with the aluminum on the trailer (u-bolts, brackets, etc) with truck bed liner paint (rubbery) to hopefully minimize future corrosion.



Got the new bunks installed and tightened down, just need to go to the ramp and float the boat to move the boat/winch stand back.



After that it was more waiting for my order of stainless hardware (for the entire trailer), springs, hubs, wheels, axles, and brakes. It's like Christmas!



When pulling off the old axles/springs 3 of the 4 springs simply broke in half when tension on the seat was released. Glad they stayed together for the 500+ mile ride home.



Hubs were not pretty, and bearings were shot.



Brake flanges were almost paper thin.



Hit post size limit, will continue in next post.

[SeaPlusPlus]

New 6000lb axle installed and brake flange bolted on.



New 3000lb TieDown Vortex GalvX 6 lug hubs:





12" Kodiak Rotor and Caliper (KodaGuard coating).







Complete! Also note new spring hanger hardware, these are hot dipped galvanized A325 structural bolts as I could not find galvanized grade 8 bolts. I did not want to use stainless or general use galvanized here since shear strength is required for this application. Though not quite as strong as grade 8, these should work nicely and last a lot longer.



The next day I wired up the trailer. New lights (not pictured), hydraulic lines, Hydrastar 1600psi hydraulic actuator, brakeaway kit, etc. Each light got it's own home run of triplex marine tinned wire (no trailer frame ground) with heat shrink butt splices. All of it was wired back to this 7 pin junction box.







Finally I went around the trailer and replaced just about every piece of hardware with stainless, using nylon washers and coating to prevent any corrosion between the aluminum and stainless.



Hit post size limit again, continued in next post.

[SeaPlusPlus]

Finally, in order to control the electric over hydraulic brakes I installed a brake controller in my tow vehicle (2009 V6 Dual Cab Tacoma, 6500lb towing capacity). I wanted it to look as factory as possible so I went with a Redarc Tow Pro Elite. This brake controller is two parts, the actual controller which is mounted somewhere in the vehicle out of sight, and then the control knob to change settings on the controller, which is mounted in a panel knock out. They even have a Tacoma factory sized knock out.



Controller installed inside center console.



Control knob installed.



I sunk a ton of money into the trailer but I'll be moving it A LOT while working on it (I keep the boat at work) so I wanted it to be as safe as possible since I'll be close to the towing capacity of my Tacoma once thing is done and fully loaded. Brakes work amazing, had to dial them down some on the controller because they were pulling my truck backwards too hard when I applied them. Now that they are dialed in I do not even feel the trailer behind me when braking, its awesome.

Hopefully I won't have to do any more trailer work for a few seasons! Next post will be about the actual SeaCraft!

[77SceptreOB]

Thanks for the very detailed trailer rehab post, lots of good content. I think a lot of people neglect their trailers and pay the price on the road with vacation killing problems. Good job!

[haynow7767]

Can't wait to see the progress

[DonV]

As Jim says, very nice trailer info. Those breaks are really, really nice. Now don't go and put them in the salt water!!!

[Capt Chuck]

I think you know what your doing based on your top shelf upgrades and rehab of the 20'.
Just some food for thought , I would reconsider raising the stringers on the Savage. You can save yourself a lot of work. With proper plumb of the tru hull scuppers out the transom, The 23' will not give you wet feet thus maintaining the high gunwhales... I used Gemlux with the replaceable flaps were still above the waterrline. GLW the rebuild.