Do I need to raise the transom ?

[poco]

Hey guys, I totally did my homework and searched first ! lol

Last year I posted about re powering, I have a 71 SF20 stock but re glassed transom. I landed on running a E-tec 115 ( river trips and lake crusing is what this boats ganna see 90% of), Iv got the cash im ready to buy but but a dealer down the road has got some apocalypse prices on a 115 G2 and a 140 G2 and they got 5-10lbs more on the 115 E-Tec. I mean im totally in to that 140 G2 but i hear up and downs on the G2 motors at the min. any thoughts on that dilemma would be greatly appreciated.

Anyway my question is this:

I had not originally intended to raise the transome, should I?
if so there was a suggestion to do 26 1/2 is that still the recommendation?
is a jack plate recommended?

I do not have full rebuild money at the moment but will be keeping this boat for the foreseeable future and will get to it one day for now I just really really wanna get out on the water and no worry my motors ganna die or catch on fire. Both happed last weekend so im ready to move on lol

*I thought I was posting in the "general" section cant delete it so my apologies

[flyingfrizzle]

If the transom is solid now and you are going with a new outboard it may be worth going after raising it. I would personally work it in on a full rebuild of the transom as if you cut into it you may not like what you find forcing you to rebuild or sideline the hull. Few of these pre 80 model hulls have good transoms still that are original.


26.5 is a good number for modern outboards of the 25 leg tho

[poco]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

If the transom is solid now and you are going with a new outboard it may be worth going after raising it. I would personally work it in on a full rebuild of the transom as if you cut into it you may not like what you find forcing you to rebuild or sideline the hull. Few of these pre 80 model hulls have good transoms still that are original.


26.5 is a good number for modern outboards of the 25 leg tho

Hey thanks! yeah the transom is sold and in great shape was fixed before I bought her and then I had is inspected and we decide to re glass it last year.

I just dont want to be going down the wrong path putting a 400lbs motor on the stock transom hight if its ganna really mess up the weight and balance

[poco]

OK so to get my transom up will blow the next 2 months, how horrible of a idea is it to buy a long shat motor now mount it on a jackplate and come fall raise the transome ?(remember boats in a lake no swells to worry about )

[flyingfrizzle]

I would get the 25" leg motor and just use the jack plate or raise it other means rather than buy the lower 20" leg motor. I have done the same on an older 21' continental hull. Used a 25" leg on the factory 20" transom as it was redone prior and in good shape but not raised. I just built my own 5" extension/jackplate out of stainless steel angle and plate. I still have it somewhere but it was rather heavy. I know they make cheaper options or non adjustable 5" jack brackets to raise outboards that are more reasonable on the budget. Seems like I have an aluminum factory extension bracket somewhere also that came off a speed boat. Most non adjustable plates have a lot less setback also. I would just go that route and then if you ever raise the transom you have the right length outboard and it will be much safer with the power head raised out of the water 5" higher too.

[poco]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

I would get the 25" leg motor and just use the jack plate or raise it other means rather than buy the lower 20" leg motor. I have done the same on an older 21' continental hull. Used a 25" leg on the factory 20" transom as it was redone prior and in good shape but not raised. I just built my own 5" extension/jackplate out of stainless steel angle and plate. I still have it somewhere but it was rather heavy. I know they make cheaper options or non adjustable 5" jack brackets to raise outboards that are more reasonable on the budget. Seems like I have an aluminum factory extension bracket somewhere also that came off a speed boat. Most non adjustable plates have a lot less setback also. I would just go that route and then if you ever raise the transom you have the right length outboard and it will be much safer with the power head raised out of the water 5" higher too.

I cant thank ya enough man, ive really been racking my brain on the option but as I have 0 experience in this kinda shenanigans i was not sure how bad a idea that was lol. prob is id google it and get 5 people whos cousin or uncle had a bad experience and 5 people who where like yeah its fine. sounds like im ganna do that.

anythoughs on a 115 or 140 ? both G2

[Thepistonhead]

I almost pulled the trigger last week on a 25" Zuke 140. I have the same scenario.....good transom but redone in stock height. Bobs and CMC both make brackets to lift the motor 5" for about $130-$160. After a bunch of research this is a totally viable option on a fresh/strong transom. Some will turn there nose up at it but it is perfectly fine. No need in spending money on a jack plate.

[Capt Terry]

Pistonhead
I am not arguing with your comment, but the type of steering should be considered as well. When I redid my transom I raised it to 22” because 1- my ETEC 150 HO is 20” and I didn’t want to lengthen, 2- am happy with my Teleflex non-feedback steering and it looked like raising the engine any more than I did would require hydraulic steering, 3- used to boat in Stuart area but now on SC lakes, and 20” had worked ok for 40+ years, so didnt see need for expense of lengthening engine and hydraulics. Not sure, but a 140 GT may have power steering. If I had been close to re-engining probably would have done 25”..

[poco]

Originally Posted by Thepistonhead

I almost pulled the trigger last week on a 25" Zuke 140. I have the same scenario.....good transom but redone in stock height. Bobs and CMC both make brackets to lift the motor 5" for about $130-$160. After a bunch of research this is a totally viable option on a fresh/strong transom. Some will turn there nose up at it but it is perfectly fine. No need in spending money on a jack plate.

Thanks! man the zuke 140 was up there on our list but the dealer got a 115 g2 and 140 g2 before this apocalypse kicked off and he really wants to move them lol.

I think where going with Bobs just cause shipping was cheaper but yeah there look the same. I am little worried about the off set its a 1/2inch and the G2 motor sits a little farther back it looks like then a traditional motor mount. But its temporary Ill have time to get that transom up in a few month I just know if I start it now ill be out all summer !

[poco]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

Pistonhead
I am not arguing with your comment, but the type of steering should be considered as well. When I redid my transom I raised it to 22” because 1- my ETEC 150 HO is 20” and I didn’t want to lengthen, 2- am happy with my Teleflex non-feedback steering and it looked like raising the engine any more than I did would require hydraulic steering, 3- used to boat in Stuart area but now on SC lakes, and 20” had worked ok for 40+ years, so didnt see need for expense of lengthening engine and hydraulics. Not sure, but a 140 GT may have power steering. If I had been close to re-engining probably would have done 25”..

sweet yeah I put hydraulic on last year a little baystar kit but it really does not fit well in there as is, I cant raise the motor all the way out with out crushing the splashwell The g2 has internal steering.

The only pos I see in the Etech G2 over the G1 is that the steering, oil and lift are all onboard on the motor. The neg is thats more weight over that one spot Not huge but that g2 sits a little more back as well and I really dont want to fuck up the balance. I mean you can run mechanical cables to a box that converts it to a digital sig but why.
BUT
Im really not happy about the all digital control aspect neat and all but feel like a great way to get stuck with no way to fix in the middle of the nowhere. LOL