|
|
#1
04-10-2021, 09:46 AM
|
|||
|
|||
72 20' new deck
I've been researching this site as it's my go to bible with the wealth of information and truly appreciated experience. However I cannot seem to find deck replacements when keeping the liner in. I'm struggling with the decision to lay in a new core on top of the old glass, which is in good shape yet wavy, or cutting bottom glass layer out, raising stringers and mounting side cleats on liner. I really don't want to rip this whole thing apart as I'm short on time and weather in NJ. I did replace transom with Coosa using the West System as a guide and increased height to 26 1/2, based on many CBC restores. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks all!
|
|
#2
04-10-2021, 11:20 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Since you and coosa are already friends
 Cut the old wood out and top it off with 1/2 or 3/4 coosa. You already have a 2" ledge to lay it on and tab to the sides. 1708 on the top and bottom of the coosa and it's done forever. If you want to add strength to where the CC mounts, epoxy some 1x2 hard wood strips to the underside of the new coosa floor for the screws to go in to. Have fun!!
|
|
#3
04-11-2021, 09:03 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi Don, Thank you for the reply. So I already chiseled out everything to the original underside roven/MAT. Should I just leave that intact and glue spacer strips over the stringers? I wanted to use 1/2 inch coring material, but most on this site seem to go with 3/4. The original was 3/8 balsa / wood mix core, so I'm thinking 3/4 may be overkill and extra unneeded weight?
|
|
#4
04-11-2021, 10:24 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
You are way too patient!! I would have cut it all out....seems easier to me and I'm lazy. I've only seen 3/4 used, in coosa that is a very small difference in weight. Only 17 pounds for a 4x8 sheet. However with 1708 on the top and bottom of 1/2 coosa there is no reason to think it would not be strong enough. I would for sure use backing plates for the CC and leaning post bolts/screws for 1/2.
http://coosacomposites.com/pdfs/coosa_weightchart.pdf
|
|
#5
04-11-2021, 11:13 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I replaced my deck with 1/2 inch Nida Core with a bottom layer of glass and 1704 on the top....came out solid. I also layed some wood were the t-top and console go. And idea is to drill out the wood were the screws go fill in with ...can remember what...and then screw it into that. It will never rot again
|
|
#6
04-11-2021, 11:14 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Well this is my first (and probably last) attempt to getting the boat I've loved since the 70's, so I'm trying to get it right the first time. I think I was afraid to see what was underneath, cause it would likely lead me to raising stringers, new foam, new belly tank..... blah blah blah.....lol $$$$$$. Here's one for you'll, a dove nested in my ladder and wife wants me to wait until eggs hatch and they've flown the coup. Any suggestions (other than getting rid of the wife) lol
|
|
#9
04-11-2021, 04:23 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
If I were to do it again I would have cut it all out
|
|
#10
04-12-2021, 05:26 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thank you Don and Jorge for your experience. Based on what you said, I'm going to cut out that remaining skin, and go with 1/2" coosa epoxied to the 2" ledger all around. I chose 1/2" so I can use the scrap as spacers on the stringers. That's the depth of the old floor. I'm going to keep the scuppers where they are and just plug them as I'll be trailering this boat. I was concerned about the whole deck raising to 2.5" anyway, because I'm a new granddaddy twice with boys who I hope love to fish, and the floor height to the cap is a little worrisome if they decide to lean over for that one second.
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
